Stuart Charles here, HomeStudioBasics.com helping YOU make sound decisions leading to a beautiful audio experience that will make you fall in love with music (NOT gear) all over again, so…
This article, similar to my HIFIMAN,Sennheiser, and AKG writeups, will house any and all current, as well as future iterations of the products in question.
Today’s column will highlight FiiO’s K series lineup, covering current DACS K3,K5 Pro,K7,K9 Pro, K9 (non-pro), K11 and K19.
We’ll discuss everything from sound to features, power output, and more.
By the end of this article,
you’ll know which is best for your specific needs.
To keep things simple and concise, I’ll rank them in order of value (worst to best) but it’s not exactly black and white which you’ll soon find out later.
Also, worst does not mean the DAC is bad; rather, it simply means consider it last.
Keep in mind that I have logged dozens (perhaps even hundreds) of hours on these and my goal is to help you purchase the right one specific to your unique situation.
Digital Outputs: Coaxial: RCA for 192 kHz, Support DSD64 DOP Optical Out: Up to 96 kHz.
Inputs: 1x Type-C USB.
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: ≥113 dB.
THD: ≤0.004%.
Frequency Response: 20Hz to 80kHz.
Op amp: 2 x OPA926.
Low-pass filter: TI OPA1612.
USB chip: XMOS XUF208.
Dimensions: 2.8 x 2.3 x 0.9″ / 70.0 x 58.0 x 22.0 mm.
Weight: 83 grams.
Warranty: 1 year.
Power: Bus-powered, 5 VDC 500 mA.
Features: Bass boost, Gain switch.
The K3 is certainly a useful product. It was one of the first DACs from FiiO to feature a USB Type-C connection, and to this day still comes in handy.
Before snagging a pair of Yamaha HS7s, I used the K3 as a preamp into the Presonus Eris e3.5s; a great set of budget monitors that actually sound like monitors.
The K3’s 3.5mm output on the back is mega sweet and comes in handy when you need something quick and dirty to connect to an Amp, speakers, etc.
In this way, it acts as a preamp, but it’s also an amp/DAC combo and works with headphones.
The problem is that it doesn’t have a lot of power unbalanced, thus why I relegate it to preamp duties most of the time.
The good news is that you can run it balanced with a 2.5mm cable, so that’s nice.
It sounds excellent with a Sennheiser HD58X balanced for example.
2.5mm cable I use with the 58X and K3.
It also supports DSD and generally provides your headphones with a crisp, neutral digital-to-analog conversion.
On the front are your volume pot, balanced jack, unbalanced jack, bass boost, and gain switch.
I hardly ever use the bass boost feature, but your mileage may vary.
Back Panel
The back contains the 3.5mm mentioned above, as well as the Type-C jack that you’ll use to connect to a PC/Laptop, a Coaxial output, and an Optical output.
With optical or coax out, you can hook it up to something like a receiver or speakers that have optical in or coax in.
The K3 is a fairly light unit but doesn’t feel cheap, with a rounded contour shape and elegant aesthetic that improved on the somewhat boxy/industrial-looking profile of the older E10K.
All in all, the K3 is still a great unit but you may not need it nowadays.
The K9 Pro was FiiO’s flagship model for quite a while, but has since been replaced with the K19. More on that in a bit.
As a “do-all” unit, I really loved the K9 Pro.
In addition to everything great about the K5 Pro, the K9 Pro adds Bluetooth, a 4.4mm input, Balanced XLR outputs, and 3 headphone output options including XLR, 4.4mm, and 6.35mm (1/4″).
Now, are those things worth roughly $300-$500 extra?
Probably not, but again, it depends entirely on you and what you’re willing to spend.
Aside from those aspects, yeah, it’s about the same thing as a K7, K5 Pro, and K11.
ESS vs. AKM version
I used to think the ESS version (and ESS chips in general) sounded cleaner, clearer, more open, etc. My stance has since shifted.
Here’s a video covering it. Don’t say I didn’t warn you. xD
The SINAD Standard And Why It’s So Important
So, I wouldn’t say the “sound” of the K9 overall is any “better” (whatever that means) and there are many people who don’t need the extras I just mentioned.
For my Ethos/Philosophy on DACs (and in general), click here.
Remember, I always recommend based on value and I believed it, at the time, to be a good value for what you were paying.
That said,
if you don’t need those extra features, don’t buy it.
Buy one of the others and you’ll be happy as a clam. You can thank me later.
Video Discussion (AKM Version)
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If the K9 and K9 Pro were wannabe flagships, the K19, as of this update, is FiiO’s official and current flagship offering (Subject to change at a moment’s notice).
Coming in at about a rent payment in my area, this $1,300 behemoth is long and wide, but not dummy thicc.
In part of FiiO’s design overhaul, the K19 mimics the streamlined, thin look and overall sleek aesthetic of their entry-level K11, and it’s certainly not a bad thing like Justin Timberlake.
Boasting a front-lit interface with scrollable menu system, the K19 is hands-on, intuitive, and fun to play with.
As with the K11, it lights up like Nicolay with a fat blunt in his mouth and even comes with a remote; surely a welcome addition for lazy couch potatoes like myself who haven’t moved from their couch indention since George H.W. Bush took office.
With more features than a new-age rap album, the K19 can be used in a myriad of different ways and proves itself incredibly valuable; albeit at a pretty hefty price tag that should make even the staunchest of audiophiles start to blush.
In other words, it’s certainly a great product but could stand to come down by around $500 before I move it up on this list and/or recommend it.
As it stands now, it’s surely the most versatile DAC I’ve tried out of around 77+, but ultimately still not worth the money in my opinion.
Why not save some of that there dough and consider this next option?
If you’re dead set on a flagship model without the official “Flagship” title, I think the K9 is the best value as far as being an incredibly useful product at a sensible-ish price.
This “non-pro” version is just as Pro as the original K9 Pro, and it’s much cheaper; functioning almost exactly like a Pro unit despite it not having the Pro moniker. In other words, to me, it’s pretty much the same thing.
Did I say Pro enough times for you?
Both have ESS chips, but the K9 Pro’s is a 9038 vs. the K9’s 9068. The K9 is lighter at 2660g, doesn’t have a Type-C port, has 3 filters vs. 7, and has the PEQ feature. The K9 Pro ESS doesn’t.
Outside of that, the units are eerily similar, and as of now, I’m not recommending the K9 Pro anymore. I’d rather you save a bunch of money like Geico and go with the regular K9.
Op amp: LPF Op Amp: Texas Instruments OPA1642, Driver Op Amp: Texas Instruments TPA6120
Dimensions: 4.7 x 5.1 x 2.2″ / 12.1 x 13.0 x 5.5 cm
Weight: 436g.
Warranty: 1 year.
Power: 15VDC, 1.5A
Gain Switch: 0, 6, 12dB
The K5 Pro was a mainstay recommendation on this site for many years dating back to 2019, and it’s still a fantastic product packed with plenty of features. It’s just that times have changed and stuff is always getting upgraded/updated etc. etc.
While things have shifted a little, this DAC is still an excellent purchase and I’ll outline why:
Affordable
The K5 Pro at roughly $150 is not a good value – it’s a value STEAL. Considering everything it can do, it almost seems criminal how cheap it remains – especially taking into consideration how much overpriced crap exists in the audio market.
Plenty Of Power & Features
In addition to its more than enough power output (1.5W @32Ω), the K5 Pro can play up to 32-bit/768kHz files, and DSD512 – very interesting indeed when you consider how old this thing is.
I don’t much care for anything above 44.1, but the K5 was advertising meaningless high PCM files before it was cool.
In addition, if you want to play files above 48kHz in Tidal, you can. You’ll just have to enable exclusive mode.
Exclusive Mode
Click on the 3 bars in the upper left corner inside Tidal.
File > Settings > Streaming.
Scroll down to where it says “Sound” and “Sound Output”.
Click (More settings) to the right.
Now just tick the button to exclusive mode and the formats will change according to the file.
Now the Halo light will turn yellow for any master files inside the program.
Complete the checkout process (you won’t be charged anything, but you will get a link in your account)
While you’re logged in, go to your “Downloads” tab and you’ll find the link to download
Download the folder to a location you can find on your computer. It will be a ZIP file
Unzip the file and the files should be inside. Extract the files
Use your software player to play and figure out what plays and what doesn’t play in your system.
You’re not quite out of the woods yet.
Now that you have some DSD files, you’ll need a special player to play them.
I’ve found that the best option is Audirvana. You can set up a free trial here.
After it’s downloaded, follow these steps:
Extract the zipped files you downloaded from BlueCoast to your desktop.
Open the Audirvana app.
Click Settings in the upper right-hand corner.
Click Library, then click “Add Folders.” Select the appropriate one.
Click the Audio Tab. IMPORTANT: Do not use WASAPI or you won’t see the correct halo colors on the K7. You must use the ASIO driver. If you can’t click it, just press the unlock button at the bottom right corner to release exclusive mode. Audirvana, like Tidal, locks exclusive access to the audio output for optimum quality. Other applications are silent as long as this access is locked. This can be a bit of a pain, but once you get used to how it functions it’s not too bad.
Play a file and enjoy!
If you don’t use FiiO’s ASIO driver, you’ll notice the DSD64, 256, and 512 options (above) will be greyed out and the color will only change to Yellow (indicating anything above 48kHz).
For clarity:
Blue = Up to 48kHz
Yellow = Anything over 48kHz
Green = DSD (up to 512)
Plays well with a Plethora
The number of different ways you can use a K5 Pro is, in my eyes, what sets it apart from other desktop offerings.
Alongside the power jack and USB Type-B slot for connection to your PC, there’s an optical input, a coaxial input, 1 set of RCA inputs, and 1 set of RCA Outputs.
This essentially means that you can use it with darn near anything: A console for gaming, any separate DAC with RCA Outputs or line output, any Amplifier with line input or RCA Inputs, any set of speakers with RCA or line inputs (Presonus Eris e3.5 or FiiO SP3 for example), and the list goes on.
You can use it with CD/DVD players that have coaxial outputs, a T.V. with coaxial out, and it works with turntables that come with Male RCA plugs (most do).
The possibilities are endless.
A while back I made this graphic illustrating the point:
All of the various switches on the front make swapping sources rather simple, so don’t fret.
3 = S. This is for S/PDIF (Coaxial) and your Optical Input.
2 = L. This is for Line Input or Output.
1 = U. This is for a USB connection to your PC.
If you need a hand with anything, comment below or contact me!
If there was one thing missing from the K5 Pro, it’s what the following options have.
The K7 lights up in a rainbow of colors upon initial startup (Turn the knob).
The K7 is a bit heavier at 610g vs. 436 for the K5 Pro. Keep in mind they feel around the same in your hand.
The K7 displays teal instead of blue for all files below 48kHz.
In addition to all of that,
the interface is slightly different this time around, and arguably more convenient/easy to see.
Instead of your input being a switch, there’s a button on the leftmost side that cycles between USB, Optical, Coaxial, and Line.
Above that, you’ll see 4 LED lights that coordinate accordingly. The rainbow-colored halo around the Volume pot that displays on startup also appears when pressing the input button and cycling between sources.
The color thing is inconsequential, but you will likely appreciate the LED lights in the upper left as it’s much easier to see which input you’re on.
In other words, it’s a lot more intuitive than the K5 Pro.
As far as the output section goes, it’s a simple switch that cycles between LO, PRE, and PO.
LO – This will be used with a separate amplifier like the JDS ATOM 2.
PRE – This is the preamp section and will be used to connect to separate active speakers like the Presonus Eris e3.5s.
PO – This is used with both unbalanced (single-ended) and balanced or TRRS headphones/wiring.
Sound & Power Output
The only small caveat is the volume potentiometer. Despite having more power, you’ll feel like you’re turning the knob a lot more – at least initially.
“Thanks to ADC curve reconstruction, experience a smooth 112 steps of adjustable volume free of channel imbalances and noise – ensuring that every note is faithfully reproduced.”
After using the K7 quite a lot since I received it, I can confirm FiiO’s statement is accurate and I’m completely fine with the implementation.
Sound
Sound-wise, there are almost no differences between the K7 and K5 Pro, and if they’re there, it’s incredibly subtle.
The K7 advertises less than 1 Output Impedance and IIRC, the K5 Pro’s is around 1.2. Again, not a whole lot of discrepancy there.
This is a smooth, crisp backdrop that works very well with all of your music, so don’t worry too much about “how it sounds.”
Output Power 2: ≥1220mW (32Ω, single-ended/THD+N < 1%)
Signal-to-noise ratio: ≥120dB (A-weighted, UAC)
Noise floor: PO < 4.4μV (A-weighted, UAC); BAL < 7.7μV (A-weighted, UAC)
Output Impedance: <1Ω(32Ω load)
Weight: Around 610g
With new DACs coming out almost weekly, it’s truly a great time to be alive.
FiiO’s K7 BT (Bluetooth) is another in a long line of K Series homies, and it’s a real keeper.
The difference between the original K7 and K7 BT?
Besides the fact that the K7 Bluetooth now supports… Bluetooth, there are no differences.
Same specs, same “sound” same everything.
Now, is the Bluetooth homie worth $50 extra? Depends on who you ask. If it was me, there’s no reason I’d buy a K7 if I could just have the K7 BT with that extra layer of functionality.
Your mileage may vary here, but I personally feel as though it’s the better value and thus why it’s ranked ahead of the original.
The incredible convenience of coming home in the evening and firing up some music with the K7BT/SP3 combo is priceless.
Picture this: It’s been a long day at work. You’re tired. You just want to get home.
You finally get home, pair your phone with the K7, press play on Spotify, and all of your problems melt away.
OK, let’s not get too carried away, but you’ll love the fact that listening to music takes all of 5 seconds, and in this new-age weirdo society where people need everything instantly or they’ll lose their damn minds, this combo is just what the mother f’ing doctor ordered.
FiiO’s K11 takes everything good about the K3, K5 Pro, and K7, and makes it dirt cheap.
This sleek, elegant-looking Amp/DAC combo is the result of FiiO’s design overhaul – also seen in the K19.
The only thing missing here is the RCA inputs, but it’s still an incredible value at $130, and as of this update, my top recommendation in the series.
Featured is a fully balanced system utilizing 4.4mm, in addition to the standard 1/4″ (6.35mm).
Its front-lit interface is a lot more convenient to use, and you’ll enjoy the numbers displayed for you to read.
This makes the process of cycling through options a lot more seamless, and it’s nice to be able to see everything.
If all that wasn’t enough, it lights the f up, too.
Final Verdict
I think we can safely discard the K3 at this point.
While useful, it’s not necessary to have anymore.
I would say go with the K5 Pro if you’re not planning to use balanced headphones, but there’s simply no reason to buy it anymore since the K11 has a balanced output and is $20 cheaper.
As of now, my top 2 recommendations in this series are the K7 BT and K11.
If you don’t need RCA inputs or Bluetooth, the K11 is hard to beat at a measly $130.
If you do need those things, go with the K7 Bluetooth. The original K7 is a great value at $200, but as mentioned earlier, if I was shopping for a DAC, the K7 BT is a lot more appealing and convenient. Why pass up the extra layer of functionality?
That said, #1 on this list is the of course the K11; another great FiiO product in a long line of many and I wholeheartedly recommend it as a fantastic all-in-one entry-level desktop solution that won’t break the bank.
Not only does FiiO understand what constitutes an excellent value (features, etc.), but they also understand pricing and how to offer a great deal.
Well, that’s about it for today my friend! I hope you’ve enjoyed this FiiO K3 vs. K5 Pro vs. K7 vs. K7 BT vs. K9 Pro vs. K11 Comparison and came away with some valuable insight.
Questions? Comments? Requests? Did I miss the mark on something? Please let me know down below or Contact me!!
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Which of these fits your needs best? I would love to hear from you. Until next time…
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Stu is determined to help you make sound decisions, and strives to deliver the best and most in depth content on the internet! In his spare time, he likes to fish, paint, play guitar, pray, rap, make beats, take photos, record videos, graphic design, and more. His sense of humour, coupled with a knack for excellence and strict attention to detail are what allow him to stand out in an crowded industry.
Firstly, fantastic article. This is just what I was looking for as I am currently in the process of deciding whether to upgrade to the K7 from the K5 pro ess. I do have some questions which i would be grateful if you could answer them for me.
1). Balanced vs Unbalanced?
In your honest opinion, do you see a benefit of using a balanced connection as opposed to an unbalanced one? Which kind of connection do you personally use? My online research has left me confused as some say balanced is way better while others say it’s a placebo effect and that opting for balanced is purely a consequence of a money grabbing marketing scheme. What’s your take on it?
2). Only high and low gain?
On my K5 pro ess, there are three gain functions. I primarily use a Philips Fidelio x2hr headphone and I find that I have to use the third gain setting to really bring out its benefits, albeit it is low impedence. Whatever the view of people on this, I notice a difference and the third gain setting is perfect for me and now much needed. Now, given that the K7 only has two gain options – low and high – from your testing, does the high gain option of the K7 resemble the third gain option on the k5 pro ess? Or is it noticeably less? This is a really important concern I have which will make or break whether I upgrade to the K7 or not.
3). THX
Does the THX on the K7 make a difference in comparison to the K5 pro ess? Even if the difference is subtle, how subtle exactly is the difference? Exact details would be greatly appreciated.
4). Does the K7 unit get really hot?
I noticed that my K5 pro ess can get quite hot sometimes. Did you find this also to be the case on the K7?
To me, not really. I tend to listen balanced when testing gear but it’s not a huge priority for me. For the most part I’m using single ended. That said, I know some people value that option. As far as differences, I believe a lot of them are placebo but I will say balanced seems slightly cleaner/crisper FWIW but take that with a grain of salt. It’s not enough of a difference to warrant going crazy or anything imo. I personally would never buy a dac for the sole reason of it having a balanced option. Does it add value to an already great product? Absolutely. I would say that for the most part I don’t believe it to be a money grabbing marketing scheme. In my view, it’s simply companies keeping up with trends and staying competitive.
2) Power Output
Here’s the tricky part. The K7 has more power, but as mentioned in the article, FiiO redesigned the potentiometer and how it reacts. So on high gain for the K7, the volume is around 2 vs. only 10-11 on high gain for the K5 Pro. You’ll feel like the K5 Pro has more power, but technically it doesn’t. I will warn you that this may be a bit jarring at first but there’s plenty of power on the K7.
Oh I also forgot to ask, The K7 uses the AK4493SEQ DACs from AKM while the K5 Pro ess uses the ES9038Q2M. Did you notice any major difference in the sound between the two? If yes, then how so? Thanks again in advance.
Yeah, the ESS is going to sound a bit cleaner and more sterile/open, but it’s not a huge difference and shouldn’t be the basis of your decision I don’t think. Keep me posted!
Thanks for the reply!
Also since the mg professional don’t come with a balanced cable, is there any benefit, for my scenario, to buy a balanced cable so i can use the balanced output on the fiio-k7?
P. S. since the headphones are low impedance, high gain is risky for them and I’m supposed to use only low gain, right?
Thx in advance for any info u can give me!
My pleasure! Here’s the thing with balanced: it does make a small difference, but also just may be a placebo. I feel like it’s slightly more refined, clean, clear, etc. but that could just be a volume discrepancy as it undoubtedly is going to be louder/going to have more power. And yeah, you’ll want to stick to low gain for low impedance/high sensitivity headphones with the K7.
MiguelSeptember 27, 2023 - 10:47 am
I already have a Beyerdynamic DT990 PRO 250 OHM. should I choose k5 or k7?
It’s for mixing and mastering music.
I’d probably go with the K5 Pro if you don’t plan to use balanced headphones. They are basically the same. Please keep me posted and let me know if you have more questions! Also what kind of music do you play?
Thank you for great informations!
i’m relatively new to the HI-FI world, using Focal Clear mg & Fiio K7 as a starter
what i want to ask is the way how to make the sound better & wider scaled and steriled. is the upgrade to K9 or K9 pro ESS could make a ‘meaningful’ upgrade to my need? or do you have any other recommendation such as cable upgrade or so?
FYI : i dig to the scale and resolution(and more) and i thought Focal Utopia & K7 combo is a ideal option for me to have(but couldn’t… too pricey…). compared to that, my combo is relatively small-scaled
I’d like to preface my response by saying that you will get varying opinions on this, but NO. Absolutely the K9 Pro will not in any way shape or form make the Clear MG sound better. Neither will any cables. That’s all a myth as Amps and DACS for the most part sound pretty similar across the board.
I definitely do understand your dilemma with the MG. It does sound relatively closed in and lacks a bit of Soundstage width and depth. But please, for the love of all things holy, do not buy into the notion that an amp will improve this. The only dac I’ve ever used that can make this claim is the SoundBlasterX G6, but that’s only because it has a switch called Scout Mode which actually does audibly space things out.
Very selfishly I have a few questions, Especially regarding the K7 vs the K11, as well as their advantages over de ifi Zen V2
I currently have the ifi Zen, and i am running three pairs of headphones with it:
-Sundara balanced
-Sundara closedback balanced
-Dekoni blue single ended
Here I am wondering if either the K7 or K11 would improve clarity. I enjoy what the setup can run right now, but feel separation might be better with some more power driven into the headphones. But since I don’t want to buy and then regret it, I wonder if it gives me any advantages, and would a K7 be even better than a K11, or would it not improve anything over my current setup.
Thank you for the question! No, clarity will not be improved at all. That comes down to the source file and your headphones. The K11 doesn’t “sound” any different/better than a Zen. It all boils down to features/versatility when it comes to any real differences in DACS in my experience and opinion.
So yeah, buying either would be a waste of money – especially since the Zen already comes with a 4.4mm headphone output. I will say that both the K7 and K11 are more versatile and I like using them with consoles, so that’s really the only instance where I would recommend a purchase. The Zen only has RCA outs.
As for a bit of further clarification in case you read some of my other posts on DACS, yes, I have said and do think the ESS chip “sounds” clearer and more open than the others I’ve tried, so you may purchase a DAC that has one. That’s really the only caveat in my mind as most DACS sound roughly the same. I’m still kind of on the fence whether or not this is some strange placebo that I’ve held on to for many years (ESS/Sabre), so take it for what its worth.
My ultimate goal is to help people save money and cut through the BS, and I wanted to clarify all that so you have a better understanding of where I’m coming from.
Thank you for the honest answer. It is true that there is a lot of crap you have to cut through to get an honest opinion. In regards to clarity: I was going by some commenters who keep indicated more power=better sound and less veiled. But as the results are conflicted, I would better ask. For my use case the Zen does it work great. I use the RCA via a RCA-AUX cable to a soundbar (and the option to have the output fixed) works great. As does the fact I alreeady have quite a number of 4.4 cables. A K11 would make sens for my workplace, as I have to rely on dongles there. But that is just an extra. In all: thanks for the comment
No problem man! And nah lol. More Power = louder and that’s it. Veiled has nothing to do with the DAC and everything to do with the headphones/source file. Please ignore people who claim that other nonsense. It’s only going to make you confused – especially moving forward as more and more shills populate this niche.
Please keep me posted and let me know if you need help with anything! And yeah, the K11 is great because of the price!
Not sure if you’ve tried it but if so, what do you think of the Qudelix 5k and how would it compare to the K11? I ask since they’re at the same price point for me.
If not, will the K11 be enough for my K701? I’ve had it for a while now but have never used it because for the longest time, I’m in a place where I couldn’t use open backs but that’ll change soon. Not sure if you need to know my preference but I prefer a balanced or flat (not sure if they’re close together haha!) signature with clarity and a little bass (assuming all these make sense to you too hah). So if the K11 is also good enough for the K701, any recommendations for the settings?
Haven’t heard the 5K but yeah, the K11 is more than enough for a K701. As far as settings, I don’t use them on DACs to be quite honest. But yeah, balanced and flat are arguably fine to use interchangeably! Do you have an original Austrian K701 or a Chinese one?
Some say the build of the Chinese models isn’t as good, but I’ve had no issues with my Chinese K702 since 2019. Take that FWIW. Other than that, it’s the same headphone. I wish they were still made in Austria (just to say I have one), but oh well I guess. And my pleasure! Reach out any time.
Hello Stu:
A very informative Website to be sure! The articles are so easy to read, dispensing with all the usual ‘word salad’ with which one typically has to contend. Having AKG K701 headphones, do I go for the FiiO K5 Pro, K7, K9, or K11? I don’t forsee using Bluetooth, RCA In, or balanced, although balanced might be nice to have for future considerations. I do like having RCA Out. My current instinct is to choose the K5 Pro, namely because of RCA Out and the generous amount of O/P power. Any thoughts? Thanks for your considerations and time.
Thank you so much! I work extremely hard to do exactly what you’ve pointed out and am constantly updating articles for readability, updates, impression/recommendation changes, new products, etc. I actually just updated the one you commented on, so it really means a lot!
I would say since you don’t need RCA In and may use balanced in the future, the K11 is the way to go since it’s cheaper than a K5 Pro, has the balanced 4.4 if you need it down the road, and is a bit easier to use/more intuitive (arguably). Don’t get me wrong, I still really like the K5 Pro and use one (mostly for gaming w/ headphones on PS3 nowadays) but it’s hard to pass up the value and price of the K11.
Hope that helps! And you’re quite welcome. Keep me posted with any questions/updates.
1. Where would you slot a Creative Labs X5 in this list and caveat comments?
2. Or (is there) a Topping or the other brands that are thrown at us by searches (which varies depending on country location or search engine) that could be compared here.
Currently trying to get the best out of Sennh HD660s and/or a tri 3x 3 amp speaker sys w best resolution sources available.
Thank you for stopping by. Haven’t heard the X5 but been trying to get one. Since you asked about Creative, are you gaming or just listening to music?
I really like the Creative G6 (gaming), ATOM 2, K7/K11 with the HD600. Any of those other 3 can also be used for gaming on console. I wouldn’t worry about much else. All of these drive the 600s really well.
If I am going to use the K11 with the Ananda Stealth version is it good, if I want to purchase some higher end hifiman headphones in the future like HE1000 do I need to purchase the K7 instead of K11?
Great to hear from you! In this case, I would err on the side of yes, CAUTIOUSLY. Love the K11, but it may have a bit of trouble pushing REALLY inefficient headphones below 90dB. That said, if Impedance/Sensitivity of any higher end stuff you’re looking at is somewhat reasonable, then I wouldn’t start freaking out and blowing lots of cash lol.
The thing to remember about amps and dacs is that 99% of them drive most headphones just fine. The problem with this hobby/niche is that a lot of people will tell you the opposite – that you need to match this and synergize that and dynamism whatever and it’s just a bunch of nonsense. The waterfall chart is always Source file > Headphones > DAC/Amp and whatever other snake oil people say is important. It’s not. Trust me, I’ve had way more experience than I’d like to admit in demoing over 74 of them at the time of this comment, and as a producer who understands the most important aspects of sound, I’m here to keep it real for new people.
The K11 is such a steal at its price, and with the 2 most inefficient headphones I have here; the K702 (Around 91dB) and HE400se (91dB), it drives them fine. With the K702 I’m in the ballpark of 50-60 out of 99 on the dial with medium gain. This is a comfortable loudness without blowing your ears out. Plenty of headroom. 400se is around the same though it has a lower impedance so doesn’t resist power as much. Most other headphones are much easier to drive and a perfect match with K11.
Just remember what I’ve said here today in the future when you’re about to mortgage your kidney away for a new flavor of the week DAC LOL. I’ll never tell you not to buy a K7 as it’s an incredible value too and one of my main recs. So based on what I said, if you do think you’ll want the extra juice anyway, go for it and don’t worry about the K11 unless you really want to save money and don’t need the RCA inputs.
Great website, as I’ve already read a lot of your articles since I stumbled upon it in search of what DAC to get. I’m happy some of my equipment choices were validated by your reviews. My question is – Having the Steinberg UR22 from a previous life as a wannabe music creator/performer, will it provide me the same quality for listening to Apple music or Spotify played from my iPad/iPhone hooked up to a hifi system (Marantz amp, B&W speakers) as one of these FiiO dac-amps? I have no way to compare because I’ve never owned any of these dac-amps before.
Thank you so much! I hope you continue browsing the website. There’s lots of good info here!
As for your question, man it’s a great one. I don’t want to get too long winded here (as I tend to get) so I would highly recommend reading my philosophy on DACS and what not to know generally where I’m coming from as a producer. Here’s my ethos for example and the articles are littered with my stance, viewpoints, experience, etc.
But to give you a quick fire answer, yes, your Audio interface is every bit as good. I actually make beats and run a Universal Audio Volt 2 into some HS7s and also use it for vocals, synths, recording acoustic, etc. The sound quality is just as good as pretty much any “audiophile” DAC I have or have tried, and trust me, I’ve tested a lot of them.
That said, FiiO’s products are still great, don’t get me wrong. A lot of people who ask me for advice aren’t necessarily producers themselves, so they may not need an Interface. For them I just recommend as normal. Which DAC are you targeting and what is your budget?
Thank you! Yeah, from reading your ethos and other articles I gathered my beliefs about DACs are kinda aligned with yours. Still, I needed validation from someone who knows more, as I’ve also read somewhere that the circuit design differences between audio interfaces and DACs specific for listening might have an effect on the audio output, and as I’ve said I have no way to compare and know if I’m missing something (fidelity). In any case I might still get either the K7 or the K11 – I’m agonizing whether I might have a need for the RCA inputs in the future. What might they be for? I might have gone for the K5pro as it’s supposed to be slightly cheaper and with the RCA inputs, but the only seller in my country has priced it the same as a K7. What do you think?
You’re welcome! Yeah if there are any differences via circuitry, they’re minuscule. As an audio engineer/producer, I just want people to focus on the source file and headphones first as those are the most important things to consider when determining how music sounds.
Fidelity wise, you’re not missing anything. It all comes down to source. DACS have a small effect. Output Impedance,SNR, and power output are in my opinion the 3 main things to understand about the DAC’s ultimate role in the equation. Those things are important, but a DAC is still a distant third on the priorities list.
RCA inputs can be handy when you want to use a separate DAC with the Amp, as some people like to mix and match. RCA inputs are also nice if you have something like a USB turntable and want to listen through headphones that way.
Yeah, the K5 Pro was my main recommendation for a long time, but since the K11 has a balanced headphone output for cheaper, I like it a bit better. That said, it is annoying that FiiO can’t just put RCA inputs on the K11, but that’s purely a way to keep the lineup diverse enough to ensure they’re making money. JMO. IF that’s the case regarding the K5 Pro, absolutely don’t buy it since it’s just a terrible value. Since you’re agonizing, you may as well just get a K7 as it has a balanced headphone output and the RCA inputs. They are nice to have and the K7 is one of my main recs now. It’s K11, K7, ATOM 2, Creative G6 (Gaming).
I prefer the form factor and the price of the K11 over the K7 but looking at the differences in the unbalanced headphone outputs, will the K11 be sufficient for my Beyerdynamic DT880 edition (250ohm)? Also, in the future if I get one of those Hifiman planar headphones, will the K11’s power be enough? Thanks again!
Great to hear from you again! I don’t have the 880, but I tested the HD600 for you (300 Ohm/97dB) just to make sure, and it’s super easy to drive. I’m at 34/100 on medium gain with heaps of headroom left.
I also tested the 400se (25 Ohm/91dB) and it’s much harder to drive because it’s less efficient. This is why I typically look at Sensitivity numbers first as most high impedance headphones aren’t actually that hard to drive in my experience. That said, I’m still only at around 47/100 on medium gain and a comfortably loud-ish volume with the 400se.
So to answer the question, yes, imo the K11 will be fine. Hope that helps!
Keep me posted with questions.
-Stu
James MolinaJuly 13, 2024 - 12:18 pm
Hi again, Stu!
I’ve had the FiiO K11 in my cart for a week and have been putting off checking out as I’ve been busy with other stuff. And now that I’ve gone back to it, I see the new FiiO K11 R2R! I’ll be waiting for your review and then decide again which one to buy.
Great to hear from you again! I will look into that for sure. Got some other things to get to though: K19 and some other stuff. I have tested R2R modules (EF600 specifically) and imo it’s not going to make a world of difference to be quite honest. But I will certainly try and get one here.
Do keep me posted on everything and reach out if I can help or you just want to chat!
Hi again, Stu!
I finally got the K11 R2R. I’m just about to test it on my Beyer DT880. Then I want to connect it to my JBL LSR305s, but not without your advice first. I would prefer to keep the JBLs on probably volume level 8 (since the knobs are on the rear) and use the K11 knob to change the volume when listening (or do you have a different recommendation?). What output mode should I use for the K11’s RCA ports – the pre or the line out? And what sensitivity setting do I use on the JBLs? Thanks in advance!
So glad you have the FiiO K11 and are enjoying it. As for your questions, they are excellent ones and should be addressed for others as well. The basic gist of it is that LO (Line out) is for a fixed level signal and bypasses the volume control, but, the K11 is designed in such a way that you can still use the volume pot.
PRE out functions on the other hand are typically designed for, and thus affected by, volume control. That said, I like the fixed level (LO) signal because it tends to be cleaner and louder. I’m always experimenting with this in different products (whether gaming, music, film etc.) and find LO to be superior. Just my .02.
As for Sensitivity on the LSR305, great question! If you’re unaware, Input sensitivity is essentially how strong the audio signal needs to be for a speaker or amplifier to produce full power. Since you’ll be using them with a DAC (K11), use the -10dBV. +4dBu is for professional devices such as mixers, interfaces, etc.
Because lower level consumer equipment typically has weaker signals, the speaker needs to be more sensitive to pick up and amplify the sound well.
Mixers and pro level audio interfaces generally send a stronger signal and thus the speaker doesn’t need to be as sensitive.
Hope that helps! Please keep me posted on how everything is going and any questions you may have.
Hi Stu!
I’m a newcomer to this hobby, so I need your opinion about my option right now. Recently, I bought a Hifiman HE400SE (recommended by my friend), and I plan to buy an entry-level DAC/AMP combo to pair with it for my home setup. After doing some research, my option falls to FiiO K7 or FiiO K11 R2R. In my country (Indonesia), K11 R2R cost around $177 and K7 cost around $197, but right now there’s a discount for K7, which I can get for only $167. Moreover, K11 R2R in my country is not ready yet (I need to pre-order it for about 1 month). Should I get the K7 or wait for the K11 R2R? Because genuinely, I’m still confused about what is R2R, how it could affect the sound quality, etc.
For another consideration, I plan to buy an IEM in the next few months to pair with it, are both K7 and K11 R2R compatible with IEMs? Or there is something that I must consider if I want to connect IEMs to a DAC/AMP?
Thanks in advance!
Thank you for stopping by man! Hmm. Kind of a toughie. I’m leaning K7 because of the price of the K11 where you are. It’s just too high in my opinion. I’ve had experience with R2R (EF600) and it’s not going to magically make your music sound better. Anyone who claims that likely believes they can hear grass growing. Just my opinion but based on experience with over 75 Amps & DACS.
I have the K11 and K7 here and love both. The K7 has more power and also the RCA inputs, so if you need those I’d go for K7. Also, leaning K7 because the 400se is very inefficient and needs a bit more power than most headphones. That said, it still does fine with the K11 as you have a medium and high gain setting. It’s just that most people want the extra power and it does come in handy for harder to drive headphones.
Nah there’s no extra thing you have to worry about with IEMs other than always make sure the volume is down before pressing play lol. Because a lot of them are the opposite of 400se and very efficient, you hardly need any power at all.
So TL;DR go for K7 and then perhaps try a K11 if it comes down in price and see which one you enjoy more. The only thing you’re really missing out on is the K11’s interface and slightly more intuitive experience/colors, but it’s not a game changer by any means. Plus the K7 has the RCA inputs as mentioned so I just think it’s a better overall value.
Hi again, Stu!
I ended up buying the K7, and I managed to get another discount, so the final price was $154, which was a crazy deal! First time using a proper audio setup like this, and I was really impressed with it.
Another quick question: I have a pair of Edifier MR4 speakers and I plan to connect them with the K7. I just need to buy an RCA to RCA cable, right? But the thing is, when I search for the cables, there’s a lot of varieties from the really cheap one to the expensive one. I plan to buy Lindy RCA to RCA cables, which were considered pretty premium brand. Does the price difference really matter for the audio setup, especially for my current setup situation?
Thanks again for your help! Gonna read and learn a lot from your articles here!
Hey man! Great deal on the K7! You basically got all the extras for the same price as the K5 Pro which was my previous go-to before K7 and K11 came out. So glad you were able to snag one for a good price. Yes, RCA to RCA will do! If the Edifier has a line input you could also do RCA to 3.5mm. And don’t worry too much about expensive cables; they don’t matter. I’ve tried cables in the thousands and they’re a complete ripoff. For your situation, it matters even less since you’re not even using balanced ones anyway.
I really appreciate your continued readership, and please do! Comment and let me know if you have questions on this thread or anywhere else. I’d be glad to help and/or chat any time.
Hi Stu!
A few days back I managed to get the Hifiman HE400 SE (v1) headphones for $69 and so far I’ve only been using them with a regular CX31993 dongle and it’s clear I’m not getting what I could out of them. Can you advise me on a dac/amp that gets the most out of them for the best price? Would a Fiio K11 suffice, for example? Here in my country it sells for $145. Thanks!
Hmm. Interesting. How much power does that one have? The 400se is admittedly pretty inefficient so it’s likely an issue with power output if I had to guess. K11 is great, but you still may want some extra headroom. I would say the K11,K7, or ATOM are your best options in the entry-level category.
Hi man. I have HD 560s with sound blaster x4 and I want to upgrade to FIIO k5 pro ess. the k11 and the k7 isn’t an option because both almost double the price of the k5 ess. is it even worth to pay the double? my main usage is gaming. I don’t like the creative any more I had sound blaster z, g6 and thx x4. I don’t know if that correct but I feel creative has clanky sound and the bass isn’t that good so wanted to upgrade specially I can get k5 pro ess for 100$ now. so, what do u think? and btw my experience with HD 560s after two years. I begin to feel it is boring and it need more EQ I have the old version and feel that the headphone became airy I mean it is Muffled. it is like the sound is too far. lowering the bass and making treble higher at some frequencies from oratory helped but it isn’t good anymore for gaming. Thx in advance.
Thank you for stopping by! This is rather strange. If the K5 Pro ESS is only $100 where you are, then yes, I would pay $200 for the K7 as I feel that price is fine considering you get a balanced 4.4mm jack (Plus that’s pretty much the normal price where I am).
That said, if the K5 Pro is around it’s normal price of $150, then I’d never pay $300 for a K7 as it’s not a good value at that point. I hope that makes sense. If you don’t plan on using balanced headphones (4.4mm with K7 or K11) then the K5 Pro ESS is fine.
But if you do think you’ll utilize the 4.4mm jack at some point, then I do think the K7 is worth $200. The K11 is normally around $130 where I am which is a great deal. At $200, not so much.
Regarding your experience with the HD560S, that’s exactly what I tell/warn people upfront about lol. I outlined my stance in the 500 Series article and 560S review if you were interested.
But yeah, perfectly said. After awhile, you simply get bored of the sound and that’s something that’s always been the case with 500 series headphones unfortunately. Dull, drab, bleh. It’s why I will never purchase one again after owning a 558 for awhile.
Also, are you saying there are 2 different versions of the 560S? My daily driver for mixing, gaming, film, casual listening is the K702. Definitely worth a look if you’re thinking about switching headphones.
Thx very much for the reply. so ill think ill goes for the k5 ess. not planning for the balanced cable at least for now. I’ll buy from Fiio store from Ali express there is a discount there with converting currency and shipping it going to cost 100$. ill check Ur review. I know a lot of reviews praised it so much but after using it for two years. yes it is boring even a gaming headphone like astro a40 is better for me specially the in-game immersion. so do u recommend a specific headphone with a budget like the hd 560s for competitive games then movies but not boring like the hd 560s
Hey man! You’re welcome. Glad to help any time. Yeah as I shared my go-to is the K702 for all of that. In my opinion much better than a 560S. Definitely check out the review of that as well to get a good idea of what you can expect. Please keep me posted on everything!
Hey! For an entry level audiophile, just for listening music at home pc, is there significant difference between k7 & k11 coupled with Beyerdynamic DT 990 pro?
Thank you for the question! No there isn’t. If you’d like my explanations about why, Here is my ethos and also check out this video.
The short of it is that you should really only concern yourself with SINAD (Signal to noise and distortion) and Output Impedance. There are other important-ish factors, but they take a backseat in my opinion and in the opinion of actual engineers like John Seaber from the video I linked you.
Hope that helps! If you need a recommendation, just go with the K11 if you don’t need the RCA inputs. If you think you’ll use RCA inputs a lot, get the K7.
If you asked me a couple years ago I would have said Mojo because I still had that bias that it was the second best “sound” I’d heard (Bryston BHA-1 being the first) even though my stance has shifted since that experience + I now attribute it to the incredible realism of the Aeon Closed rather than the Mojo.
So yeah, still love the Mojo and not trashing it (it’s still a great product in my eyes) but I would under no circumstance purchase one over a K11 with the idea that it will “sound” markedly better. It’s just not the case I’m afraid to say and you’ll be lighting money on fire. This comes with 77 Amp/DACs worth of experience and adhering to strict scientific principles of how sound works and not placebo.
I wouldn’t sell the Mojo, no. Are you talking about needing a separate DAC/Amp for preamp duties while the other (presumably Mojo) is for headphones? Or do you simply mean should you sell the Mojo and use the K11 for both preamp and headphones? I suppose you could do that, but if I already had a Mojo I’d probably hang on to it.
Thank you for stopping by! Are you planning on purchasing balanced cables for the 400se/want to listen that way? Do you not need RCA inputs? If so, I’d say yes, absolutely get a K11. I loved and recommended the K5 Pro for many years, but it’s a bit outdated since the K11 is cheaper and has a balanced headphone output. Please keep me posted with additional questions you may have and if you need a balanced cable recommendation.
Hello! I came across your site looking for information for my first dac/amp, due to the cost of importing it to my country I was left between 3 models for exclusively desktop use. The fiio new k3 $160, btr15 $160 (I know is not kinda the same category but I like the additional Bluetooth) and the k11 $210. Now I have a Sennheiser 598 but I was thinking of buying a 560s thats the of the need for a dac/amp. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations on this matter, while I continue enjoying the site.
Cheers
Great question! If you’re going for exclusively desktop, just get a K11. It’s a great product! Check out the article I linked and let me know if you have any questions.
I have a K5 Pro – I’m guessing from your comments that there’s no real improvement to upgrading to K9 or K11 – particularly since I’m only using it to drive my headphones (grado 325x) and tiny desk speakers (A2)?
I’ve been considering an upgrade but a lot of this doesn’t really sound like an upgrade
Thank you for stopping by! Nah, in my opinion, there are zero DAC upgrades in terms of “sound.” All the improvements come in the form of practical considerations, versatility, and features. If you’re interested in my take on this, click here for the video.
If you were to upgrade from a K5 Pro, just get a K7 or K7BT since it has the balanced headphone output. The K11 also has one so you may consider that as well since it’s cheaper. That said, it doesn’t have RCA inputs. The K5 Pro was my go-to recommendation for many years but there’s really no reason to buy one anymore since the K11 is cheaper and has a balanced HP output.
Very nice article, I have a K7 paired with a Beyerdynamic DT 990Pro 250 Ohms. I use it mostly for gaming, movie watching, and music listening, but wish I could get more Bass, do you think getting a K9 would satisfy my Basshead needs?
Thank you! And thank you for stopping by. No, pleasssssseeee please please please don’t spend $1,400 (or whatever it is) thinking the DAC is going to make the bass punchier. That is something an elitist snobby audiophile will claim and it’s complete nonsense. In my opinion, the 990 has a perfect bass response, but… if you want some extra slam I’d just EQ 60-90 Hz up a bit more. Do keep in mind it’s already boosted by about 5dB or so, so maybe an extra decibel or 2 will do the trick.
Stuart,
I just recently discovered your site – and I REALLY appreciate it. In particular, thanks for the review of the K11. I have an older E10K – driving HD558 – and it works great. Nevertheless, I have been thinking about getting something powered. I had just about decided on the K5Pro when I read your review of the K11. So, the question is: if I get a K11 will I actually gain much of anything, other than some pretty nifty aesthetics?
Thanks again,
Thank you! I really appreciate you and the vote of confidence as my goal is to help people avoid the audiophile rabbit hole abyss. xD
The K5 Pro was my main recommendation for many years, and it’s still a great product. The only reason I’m not recommending it anymore is because the K11 is $20 cheaper and has a 4.4mm balanced headphone output. So that’s the upgrade in my eyes. It doesn’t have RCA inputs though, so if you really need those, I’d get a K7 since it has both the 4.4mm hp output and RCA ins in addition to the other stuff. There’s really no reason to recommend a K5 Pro anymore UNLESS you never plan on listening balanced, which, you absolutely should haha.
I hope that makes sense. Please let me know and keep me posted man!
I was wondering will there be a noticeable difference in sound quality, if I switch my Nuforce udac-2 (I bought it more than 10 years ago) to K11. I use it with my laptop and HD 558.
Is it true that K11 r2r sounds warmer (analog like sound) than the original K11? will it be a better purchase (than k11)?
I haven’t heard that one but I’m inclined to say no. Do you know the output impedance on the Nuforce? I’m supposed to get a K11 R2R in the mail but haven’t yet. The first got lost in transit and the second hasn’t arrived. I’m fairly annoyed lol. Anyway, I’ve heard R2R dacs like the EF600 and can tell you it’s a lot of marketing and not much substance. So I wouldn’t get too caught up in all that but I will keep you posted regardless.
Hi. That’s like one of the most informative stuff about any kind of products I have ever read. Great work! I came across your site when looking for K7 Bt and K11 R2R reviews. Let me just paste here what I asked about on Reddit:
I am looking for a good 100-300 Euro DAC/AMP for headphones. My PC setup is: ASUS Tuf Gaming B850-PLUS WIFI Motherboard which has 4 + 1 mic analog outputs and sounds OK but it has 5.1 speakers already plugged in so I have my ATH-M40x (35 ohms) headphones plugged into the front panel of my “no name” PC case which obviously sounds noticeable worse and quieter.
I am new to DAC/AMP thing but as far as I can tell I need something that:
– has USB connection and seperate power connection (as far as I can understand separated signal and power connections equals less interference and better sound compared to running both power and signal through 1 cable);
– something that can comfortably drive higher impedance headphones and has both unbalanced and additional balanced output (if I ever want to upgrade to better cans; which I plan to)
– mostly for listening to FLAC music (Metal, Rock, Symphonic, Synthwave).
– either DAC/AMP in one package or combo.
I am not a hardcore audiophile but I do need more clear, louder and slighly higher quality musical experience.
I am looking at: FIIO K7 BT; FiiO K11 R2R; SMSL DL200 and SMSL AO300.
I have never used an AMP or DAC before. ;P
I think I am gonna go with FIIO K7 BT. What is your suggestion? Thanks.
Thank you! I’m glad it helped you. Yeah, K7 BT is probably my top choice given everything you said. The K11 is fine, some people think it’s under-powered but I don’t necessarily share that belief. That said, K7 does have more power and you’ll probably appreciate that more. K5 Pro was my long time rec but I have since replaced it with K7 because of the BT + the balanced hp out on the front. Never before has it been easier to listen balanced and you’ll also like that. There are a few other smaller differences between the 2 but I think i outlined them in this article IIRC. I hope that helps! I know you’re new so please don’t go down the amp/dac rabbit hole because you won’t be coming back out. xD
Hi again.
I went with FIIO K7 BT. I have been testing it for a few days now and so far I love what I hear. I have my PC system volume maxed and K7 on Low Gain at around 2 o’clock and my ATH-M40x sound loud enough and clear. The PC case front panel can go and f#$! itself, haha.
I won’t go down the rabbit hole, though. I may, if I ever hear any difference between FLAC and 320 kbps mp3 but so far, no matter how hard I try, I hear no difference at all. Maybe with better cans…
What wired, balanced headphones (for Metal, Rock, Symphonic and Synthwave) would you recommend? Maybe open back just to give me different experience than ATH-M40x. I am thinking about flat monitors but I do love that punchy 80’s drum sound. Budget is around 300 €/$. Thanks.
So glad you’re enjoying the K7 BT! Fantastic product. My best rec for Metal and Rock is something like an FT1, DT990 or HD25. They will all give you that perfect slam without the bloat. If you’re interested in why this is so important, check out the best headphones for hip-hop. This article goes into why tuning bass correctly is so crucial. If you need something flatter, let me know.
First of all, thank you for all the good work, it is refreshing to see a page that is easy to understand and that doesn’t tell you you need a 5k USD DAC/Amp and a pair of 1k gold plated cables to get good sound. When I bought my first DAC about 9 years ago, this was all one could find and, after reading tons of pages, I settled for the now vanished LH Labs Geek Out V2+ Infinity, which was what I could afford at that time. Now, after 9 years, it is slowly dying on me and I’ve started a search for a replacement. Most web sites go to DACs that start at the 400-500k USD mark and going well above, and dismiss options in the 150-200k range as basic and for mobile use only.
My setup is very simple, a DAC connected to my Win11 PC using Audirvana 3.5 with its remote to be able to switch quickly between my library and streaming services, comfortably sitting in my couch. Connected to this, my Shure SRH1540 headphones. Finally to the questions: from all that I read in your article and the comments, it looks like the K11 should be more than enough to drive these and provide a good listening experience? On some forums, I’ve even seen users stating that for the HP I have, a DAC actually doesn’t even make a difference and that a good EQ setup would be enough? I’m a bit sceptical about that, as I can definitely hear some difference with and without my DAC connected. What is your take on such a statement? Surely, even an entry-level DAC will be better than the native PC’s one?
Yeah man! My pleasure and thank you for the kind words. Always remember this: Any new DAC will always be replaced with another “new” dac, and it gets worse every day. I’m pretty much done with them completely at this point, but I haven’t heard of the one you mention! And yeah, you should be more than fine with a K11 given the 1540’s easy to drive specs. Those forums are absolutely correct and it’s refreshing to hear that there are still people with some sense left. Most of the time it’s “you need a b c d e and don’t forget the entire alphabet before you can listen to music” It’s infuriating. Anyway, I guess it would depend on the quality of your PC’s soundcard. Do you feel as though you get good audio out of it? Because I’ll be honest with you: I’ve tested my Lenovo X1 Extreme with a few Amp/DACs and there was literally no difference.
Thanks for the feedback. My PC is an all-in-one, so the sound is pretty much basic, a standard RealTek chip set on the motherboard, so nothing really fancy. Also, it’s clearly not recognised by Audirvana as the sound comes out jittery, even switching off all options of upsampling and so… So, I think I’ll go for the K11 which where I live sells for around 130 $.
My K11 finally arrived a few days ago. First impressions confirm that there is a lot of placebo in this area, as you say. I can hear no lower quality than my former, much more expensive, DAC. If anything, it seems that some recordings sound a bit clearer, maybe the “no filter” option of the K11 is helping here and my previous DAC may have tainted the sound. But them it’s maybe because I’m paying more attention too. Whatever it is, I’m quite happy with the sound I get and am glad to have found your blog when I did, as I was eyeing the Chord Mojo 2 as a replacement, which would have cost me 4 times the price of the K11 with no benefit at all.
Aside from those aspects, yeah, it’s about the same thing as a K7, K5 Pro, and K11.
76 comments
Firstly, fantastic article. This is just what I was looking for as I am currently in the process of deciding whether to upgrade to the K7 from the K5 pro ess. I do have some questions which i would be grateful if you could answer them for me.
1). Balanced vs Unbalanced?
In your honest opinion, do you see a benefit of using a balanced connection as opposed to an unbalanced one? Which kind of connection do you personally use? My online research has left me confused as some say balanced is way better while others say it’s a placebo effect and that opting for balanced is purely a consequence of a money grabbing marketing scheme. What’s your take on it?
2). Only high and low gain?
On my K5 pro ess, there are three gain functions. I primarily use a Philips Fidelio x2hr headphone and I find that I have to use the third gain setting to really bring out its benefits, albeit it is low impedence. Whatever the view of people on this, I notice a difference and the third gain setting is perfect for me and now much needed. Now, given that the K7 only has two gain options – low and high – from your testing, does the high gain option of the K7 resemble the third gain option on the k5 pro ess? Or is it noticeably less? This is a really important concern I have which will make or break whether I upgrade to the K7 or not.
3). THX
Does the THX on the K7 make a difference in comparison to the K5 pro ess? Even if the difference is subtle, how subtle exactly is the difference? Exact details would be greatly appreciated.
4). Does the K7 unit get really hot?
I noticed that my K5 pro ess can get quite hot sometimes. Did you find this also to be the case on the K7?
Hey man! Thank you for the nice comment.
As for your questions:
1) Balanced vs. Unbalanced.
To me, not really. I tend to listen balanced when testing gear but it’s not a huge priority for me. For the most part I’m using single ended. That said, I know some people value that option. As far as differences, I believe a lot of them are placebo but I will say balanced seems slightly cleaner/crisper FWIW but take that with a grain of salt. It’s not enough of a difference to warrant going crazy or anything imo. I personally would never buy a dac for the sole reason of it having a balanced option. Does it add value to an already great product? Absolutely. I would say that for the most part I don’t believe it to be a money grabbing marketing scheme. In my view, it’s simply companies keeping up with trends and staying competitive.
2) Power Output
Here’s the tricky part. The K7 has more power, but as mentioned in the article, FiiO redesigned the potentiometer and how it reacts. So on high gain for the K7, the volume is around 2 vs. only 10-11 on high gain for the K5 Pro. You’ll feel like the K5 Pro has more power, but technically it doesn’t. I will warn you that this may be a bit jarring at first but there’s plenty of power on the K7.
3) THX
No, and please, please don’t buy a DAC because it has the THX stamp on it. I linked it in the article but here’s what you need to know about THX.
4) Heat
I haven’t had any issues with mine, no. I also didn’t have issues with the K5 Pro getting hot either.
Oh I also forgot to ask, The K7 uses the AK4493SEQ DACs from AKM while the K5 Pro ess uses the ES9038Q2M. Did you notice any major difference in the sound between the two? If yes, then how so? Thanks again in advance.
Yeah, the ESS is going to sound a bit cleaner and more sterile/open, but it’s not a huge difference and shouldn’t be the basis of your decision I don’t think. Keep me posted!
Will the K7 be good enough to drive the focal clear mg professionals?
Absolutely!! At 55 Ohm/104dB, I wouldn’t worry.
Thanks for the reply!
Also since the mg professional don’t come with a balanced cable, is there any benefit, for my scenario, to buy a balanced cable so i can use the balanced output on the fiio-k7?
P. S. since the headphones are low impedance, high gain is risky for them and I’m supposed to use only low gain, right?
Thx in advance for any info u can give me!
My pleasure! Here’s the thing with balanced: it does make a small difference, but also just may be a placebo. I feel like it’s slightly more refined, clean, clear, etc. but that could just be a volume discrepancy as it undoubtedly is going to be louder/going to have more power. And yeah, you’ll want to stick to low gain for low impedance/high sensitivity headphones with the K7.
I already have a Beyerdynamic DT990 PRO 250 OHM. should I choose k5 or k7?
It’s for mixing and mastering music.
Miguel,
I’d probably go with the K5 Pro if you don’t plan to use balanced headphones. They are basically the same. Please keep me posted and let me know if you have more questions! Also what kind of music do you play?
-Stu
Thank you for great informations!
i’m relatively new to the HI-FI world, using Focal Clear mg & Fiio K7 as a starter
what i want to ask is the way how to make the sound better & wider scaled and steriled. is the upgrade to K9 or K9 pro ESS could make a ‘meaningful’ upgrade to my need? or do you have any other recommendation such as cable upgrade or so?
FYI : i dig to the scale and resolution(and more) and i thought Focal Utopia & K7 combo is a ideal option for me to have(but couldn’t… too pricey…). compared to that, my combo is relatively small-scaled
Namu,
My pleasure!
I’d like to preface my response by saying that you will get varying opinions on this, but NO. Absolutely the K9 Pro will not in any way shape or form make the Clear MG sound better. Neither will any cables. That’s all a myth as Amps and DACS for the most part sound pretty similar across the board.
I definitely do understand your dilemma with the MG. It does sound relatively closed in and lacks a bit of Soundstage width and depth. But please, for the love of all things holy, do not buy into the notion that an amp will improve this. The only dac I’ve ever used that can make this claim is the SoundBlasterX G6, but that’s only because it has a switch called Scout Mode which actually does audibly space things out.
Anyway, I hope this helps!
Please keep me posted with any questions.
Cheers,
-Stu
Thanks for your kind reply! it was meaningful and helpful to me! hope you have wonderful day!
merci mille fois and also, 감사합니다 🙂
My pleasure any time! Do reach out if you ever need a hand.
Cheers,
-Stu
항상 기꺼이 도와 드리겠습니다!
Very selfishly I have a few questions, Especially regarding the K7 vs the K11, as well as their advantages over de ifi Zen V2
I currently have the ifi Zen, and i am running three pairs of headphones with it:
-Sundara balanced
-Sundara closedback balanced
-Dekoni blue single ended
Here I am wondering if either the K7 or K11 would improve clarity. I enjoy what the setup can run right now, but feel separation might be better with some more power driven into the headphones. But since I don’t want to buy and then regret it, I wonder if it gives me any advantages, and would a K7 be even better than a K11, or would it not improve anything over my current setup.
Björn,
Thank you for the question! No, clarity will not be improved at all. That comes down to the source file and your headphones. The K11 doesn’t “sound” any different/better than a Zen. It all boils down to features/versatility when it comes to any real differences in DACS in my experience and opinion.
So yeah, buying either would be a waste of money – especially since the Zen already comes with a 4.4mm headphone output. I will say that both the K7 and K11 are more versatile and I like using them with consoles, so that’s really the only instance where I would recommend a purchase. The Zen only has RCA outs.
As for a bit of further clarification in case you read some of my other posts on DACS, yes, I have said and do think the ESS chip “sounds” clearer and more open than the others I’ve tried, so you may purchase a DAC that has one. That’s really the only caveat in my mind as most DACS sound roughly the same. I’m still kind of on the fence whether or not this is some strange placebo that I’ve held on to for many years (ESS/Sabre), so take it for what its worth.
My ultimate goal is to help people save money and cut through the BS, and I wanted to clarify all that so you have a better understanding of where I’m coming from.
Hope that helps!
Please keep me posted with questions/updates.
-Stu
Stu,
Thank you for the honest answer. It is true that there is a lot of crap you have to cut through to get an honest opinion. In regards to clarity: I was going by some commenters who keep indicated more power=better sound and less veiled. But as the results are conflicted, I would better ask. For my use case the Zen does it work great. I use the RCA via a RCA-AUX cable to a soundbar (and the option to have the output fixed) works great. As does the fact I alreeady have quite a number of 4.4 cables. A K11 would make sens for my workplace, as I have to rely on dongles there. But that is just an extra. In all: thanks for the comment
Björn,
No problem man! And nah lol. More Power = louder and that’s it. Veiled has nothing to do with the DAC and everything to do with the headphones/source file. Please ignore people who claim that other nonsense. It’s only going to make you confused – especially moving forward as more and more shills populate this niche.
Please keep me posted and let me know if you need help with anything! And yeah, the K11 is great because of the price!
-Stu
Not sure if you’ve tried it but if so, what do you think of the Qudelix 5k and how would it compare to the K11? I ask since they’re at the same price point for me.
If not, will the K11 be enough for my K701? I’ve had it for a while now but have never used it because for the longest time, I’m in a place where I couldn’t use open backs but that’ll change soon. Not sure if you need to know my preference but I prefer a balanced or flat (not sure if they’re close together haha!) signature with clarity and a little bass (assuming all these make sense to you too hah). So if the K11 is also good enough for the K701, any recommendations for the settings?
Thank you!
Hey man!
Haven’t heard the 5K but yeah, the K11 is more than enough for a K701. As far as settings, I don’t use them on DACs to be quite honest. But yeah, balanced and flat are arguably fine to use interchangeably! Do you have an original Austrian K701 or a Chinese one?
What I have is a Chinese one, according to the box. Is there a big difference between the 2 that I should be wary of? Thanks again!
Sig,
Some say the build of the Chinese models isn’t as good, but I’ve had no issues with my Chinese K702 since 2019. Take that FWIW. Other than that, it’s the same headphone. I wish they were still made in Austria (just to say I have one), but oh well I guess. And my pleasure! Reach out any time.
-Stu
Hello Stu:
A very informative Website to be sure! The articles are so easy to read, dispensing with all the usual ‘word salad’ with which one typically has to contend. Having AKG K701 headphones, do I go for the FiiO K5 Pro, K7, K9, or K11? I don’t forsee using Bluetooth, RCA In, or balanced, although balanced might be nice to have for future considerations. I do like having RCA Out. My current instinct is to choose the K5 Pro, namely because of RCA Out and the generous amount of O/P power. Any thoughts? Thanks for your considerations and time.
Eric,
Thank you so much! I work extremely hard to do exactly what you’ve pointed out and am constantly updating articles for readability, updates, impression/recommendation changes, new products, etc. I actually just updated the one you commented on, so it really means a lot!
I would say since you don’t need RCA In and may use balanced in the future, the K11 is the way to go since it’s cheaper than a K5 Pro, has the balanced 4.4 if you need it down the road, and is a bit easier to use/more intuitive (arguably). Don’t get me wrong, I still really like the K5 Pro and use one (mostly for gaming w/ headphones on PS3 nowadays) but it’s hard to pass up the value and price of the K11.
Hope that helps! And you’re quite welcome. Keep me posted with any questions/updates.
-Stu
1. Where would you slot a Creative Labs X5 in this list and caveat comments?
2. Or (is there) a Topping or the other brands that are thrown at us by searches (which varies depending on country location or search engine) that could be compared here.
Currently trying to get the best out of Sennh HD660s and/or a tri 3x 3 amp speaker sys w best resolution sources available.
Thanks
Hey man!
Thank you for stopping by. Haven’t heard the X5 but been trying to get one. Since you asked about Creative, are you gaming or just listening to music?
I really like the Creative G6 (gaming), ATOM 2, K7/K11 with the HD600. Any of those other 3 can also be used for gaming on console. I wouldn’t worry about much else. All of these drive the 600s really well.
Hope that helps! Let me know.
-Stu
Hi Stu,
If I am going to use the K11 with the Ananda Stealth version is it good, if I want to purchase some higher end hifiman headphones in the future like HE1000 do I need to purchase the K7 instead of K11?
Thanks you so much
Tan,
Great to hear from you! In this case, I would err on the side of yes, CAUTIOUSLY. Love the K11, but it may have a bit of trouble pushing REALLY inefficient headphones below 90dB. That said, if Impedance/Sensitivity of any higher end stuff you’re looking at is somewhat reasonable, then I wouldn’t start freaking out and blowing lots of cash lol.
The thing to remember about amps and dacs is that 99% of them drive most headphones just fine. The problem with this hobby/niche is that a lot of people will tell you the opposite – that you need to match this and synergize that and dynamism whatever and it’s just a bunch of nonsense. The waterfall chart is always Source file > Headphones > DAC/Amp and whatever other snake oil people say is important. It’s not. Trust me, I’ve had way more experience than I’d like to admit in demoing over 74 of them at the time of this comment, and as a producer who understands the most important aspects of sound, I’m here to keep it real for new people.
The K11 is such a steal at its price, and with the 2 most inefficient headphones I have here; the K702 (Around 91dB) and HE400se (91dB), it drives them fine. With the K702 I’m in the ballpark of 50-60 out of 99 on the dial with medium gain. This is a comfortable loudness without blowing your ears out. Plenty of headroom. 400se is around the same though it has a lower impedance so doesn’t resist power as much. Most other headphones are much easier to drive and a perfect match with K11.
Just remember what I’ve said here today in the future when you’re about to mortgage your kidney away for a new flavor of the week DAC LOL. I’ll never tell you not to buy a K7 as it’s an incredible value too and one of my main recs. So based on what I said, if you do think you’ll want the extra juice anyway, go for it and don’t worry about the K11 unless you really want to save money and don’t need the RCA inputs.
Hope that helps! Let me know.
-Stu
Great website, as I’ve already read a lot of your articles since I stumbled upon it in search of what DAC to get. I’m happy some of my equipment choices were validated by your reviews. My question is – Having the Steinberg UR22 from a previous life as a wannabe music creator/performer, will it provide me the same quality for listening to Apple music or Spotify played from my iPad/iPhone hooked up to a hifi system (Marantz amp, B&W speakers) as one of these FiiO dac-amps? I have no way to compare because I’ve never owned any of these dac-amps before.
James,
Thank you so much! I hope you continue browsing the website. There’s lots of good info here!
As for your question, man it’s a great one. I don’t want to get too long winded here (as I tend to get) so I would highly recommend reading my philosophy on DACS and what not to know generally where I’m coming from as a producer. Here’s my ethos for example and the articles are littered with my stance, viewpoints, experience, etc.
But to give you a quick fire answer, yes, your Audio interface is every bit as good. I actually make beats and run a Universal Audio Volt 2 into some HS7s and also use it for vocals, synths, recording acoustic, etc. The sound quality is just as good as pretty much any “audiophile” DAC I have or have tried, and trust me, I’ve tested a lot of them.
That said, FiiO’s products are still great, don’t get me wrong. A lot of people who ask me for advice aren’t necessarily producers themselves, so they may not need an Interface. For them I just recommend as normal. Which DAC are you targeting and what is your budget?
-Stu
Thank you! Yeah, from reading your ethos and other articles I gathered my beliefs about DACs are kinda aligned with yours. Still, I needed validation from someone who knows more, as I’ve also read somewhere that the circuit design differences between audio interfaces and DACs specific for listening might have an effect on the audio output, and as I’ve said I have no way to compare and know if I’m missing something (fidelity). In any case I might still get either the K7 or the K11 – I’m agonizing whether I might have a need for the RCA inputs in the future. What might they be for? I might have gone for the K5pro as it’s supposed to be slightly cheaper and with the RCA inputs, but the only seller in my country has priced it the same as a K7. What do you think?
James,
You’re welcome! Yeah if there are any differences via circuitry, they’re minuscule. As an audio engineer/producer, I just want people to focus on the source file and headphones first as those are the most important things to consider when determining how music sounds.
Fidelity wise, you’re not missing anything. It all comes down to source. DACS have a small effect. Output Impedance, SNR, and power output are in my opinion the 3 main things to understand about the DAC’s ultimate role in the equation. Those things are important, but a DAC is still a distant third on the priorities list.
RCA inputs can be handy when you want to use a separate DAC with the Amp, as some people like to mix and match. RCA inputs are also nice if you have something like a USB turntable and want to listen through headphones that way.
Yeah, the K5 Pro was my main recommendation for a long time, but since the K11 has a balanced headphone output for cheaper, I like it a bit better. That said, it is annoying that FiiO can’t just put RCA inputs on the K11, but that’s purely a way to keep the lineup diverse enough to ensure they’re making money. JMO. IF that’s the case regarding the K5 Pro, absolutely don’t buy it since it’s just a terrible value. Since you’re agonizing, you may as well just get a K7 as it has a balanced headphone output and the RCA inputs. They are nice to have and the K7 is one of my main recs now. It’s K11, K7, ATOM 2, Creative G6 (Gaming).
Hope that helps! Keep me posted with questions.
-Stu
I prefer the form factor and the price of the K11 over the K7 but looking at the differences in the unbalanced headphone outputs, will the K11 be sufficient for my Beyerdynamic DT880 edition (250ohm)? Also, in the future if I get one of those Hifiman planar headphones, will the K11’s power be enough? Thanks again!
James,
Great to hear from you again! I don’t have the 880, but I tested the HD600 for you (300 Ohm/97dB) just to make sure, and it’s super easy to drive. I’m at 34/100 on medium gain with heaps of headroom left.
I also tested the 400se (25 Ohm/91dB) and it’s much harder to drive because it’s less efficient. This is why I typically look at Sensitivity numbers first as most high impedance headphones aren’t actually that hard to drive in my experience. That said, I’m still only at around 47/100 on medium gain and a comfortably loud-ish volume with the 400se.
So to answer the question, yes, imo the K11 will be fine. Hope that helps!
Keep me posted with questions.
-Stu
Hi again, Stu!
I’ve had the FiiO K11 in my cart for a week and have been putting off checking out as I’ve been busy with other stuff. And now that I’ve gone back to it, I see the new FiiO K11 R2R! I’ll be waiting for your review and then decide again which one to buy.
James,
Great to hear from you again! I will look into that for sure. Got some other things to get to though: K19 and some other stuff. I have tested R2R modules (EF600 specifically) and imo it’s not going to make a world of difference to be quite honest. But I will certainly try and get one here.
Do keep me posted on everything and reach out if I can help or you just want to chat!
-Stu
Hi again, Stu!
I finally got the K11 R2R. I’m just about to test it on my Beyer DT880. Then I want to connect it to my JBL LSR305s, but not without your advice first. I would prefer to keep the JBLs on probably volume level 8 (since the knobs are on the rear) and use the K11 knob to change the volume when listening (or do you have a different recommendation?). What output mode should I use for the K11’s RCA ports – the pre or the line out? And what sensitivity setting do I use on the JBLs? Thanks in advance!
Hey man!
So glad you have the FiiO K11 and are enjoying it. As for your questions, they are excellent ones and should be addressed for others as well. The basic gist of it is that LO (Line out) is for a fixed level signal and bypasses the volume control, but, the K11 is designed in such a way that you can still use the volume pot.
PRE out functions on the other hand are typically designed for, and thus affected by, volume control. That said, I like the fixed level (LO) signal because it tends to be cleaner and louder. I’m always experimenting with this in different products (whether gaming, music, film etc.) and find LO to be superior. Just my .02.
As for Sensitivity on the LSR305, great question! If you’re unaware, Input sensitivity is essentially how strong the audio signal needs to be for a speaker or amplifier to produce full power. Since you’ll be using them with a DAC (K11), use the -10dBV. +4dBu is for professional devices such as mixers, interfaces, etc.
Because lower level consumer equipment typically has weaker signals, the speaker needs to be more sensitive to pick up and amplify the sound well.
Mixers and pro level audio interfaces generally send a stronger signal and thus the speaker doesn’t need to be as sensitive.
Hope that helps! Please keep me posted on how everything is going and any questions you may have.
Best,
-Stu
Hi Stu!
I’m a newcomer to this hobby, so I need your opinion about my option right now. Recently, I bought a Hifiman HE400SE (recommended by my friend), and I plan to buy an entry-level DAC/AMP combo to pair with it for my home setup. After doing some research, my option falls to FiiO K7 or FiiO K11 R2R. In my country (Indonesia), K11 R2R cost around $177 and K7 cost around $197, but right now there’s a discount for K7, which I can get for only $167. Moreover, K11 R2R in my country is not ready yet (I need to pre-order it for about 1 month). Should I get the K7 or wait for the K11 R2R? Because genuinely, I’m still confused about what is R2R, how it could affect the sound quality, etc.
For another consideration, I plan to buy an IEM in the next few months to pair with it, are both K7 and K11 R2R compatible with IEMs? Or there is something that I must consider if I want to connect IEMs to a DAC/AMP?
Thanks in advance!
Kevin,
Thank you for stopping by man! Hmm. Kind of a toughie. I’m leaning K7 because of the price of the K11 where you are. It’s just too high in my opinion. I’ve had experience with R2R (EF600) and it’s not going to magically make your music sound better. Anyone who claims that likely believes they can hear grass growing. Just my opinion but based on experience with over 75 Amps & DACS.
I have the K11 and K7 here and love both. The K7 has more power and also the RCA inputs, so if you need those I’d go for K7. Also, leaning K7 because the 400se is very inefficient and needs a bit more power than most headphones. That said, it still does fine with the K11 as you have a medium and high gain setting. It’s just that most people want the extra power and it does come in handy for harder to drive headphones.
Nah there’s no extra thing you have to worry about with IEMs other than always make sure the volume is down before pressing play lol. Because a lot of them are the opposite of 400se and very efficient, you hardly need any power at all.
So TL;DR go for K7 and then perhaps try a K11 if it comes down in price and see which one you enjoy more. The only thing you’re really missing out on is the K11’s interface and slightly more intuitive experience/colors, but it’s not a game changer by any means. Plus the K7 has the RCA inputs as mentioned so I just think it’s a better overall value.
Hope that helps!
Let me know.
-Stu
Hi again, Stu!
I ended up buying the K7, and I managed to get another discount, so the final price was $154, which was a crazy deal! First time using a proper audio setup like this, and I was really impressed with it.
Another quick question: I have a pair of Edifier MR4 speakers and I plan to connect them with the K7. I just need to buy an RCA to RCA cable, right? But the thing is, when I search for the cables, there’s a lot of varieties from the really cheap one to the expensive one. I plan to buy Lindy RCA to RCA cables, which were considered pretty premium brand. Does the price difference really matter for the audio setup, especially for my current setup situation?
Thanks again for your help! Gonna read and learn a lot from your articles here!
Kevin,
Hey man! Great deal on the K7! You basically got all the extras for the same price as the K5 Pro which was my previous go-to before K7 and K11 came out. So glad you were able to snag one for a good price. Yes, RCA to RCA will do! If the Edifier has a line input you could also do RCA to 3.5mm. And don’t worry too much about expensive cables; they don’t matter. I’ve tried cables in the thousands and they’re a complete ripoff. For your situation, it matters even less since you’re not even using balanced ones anyway.
I really appreciate your continued readership, and please do! Comment and let me know if you have questions on this thread or anywhere else. I’d be glad to help and/or chat any time.
-Stu
Hi Stu!
A few days back I managed to get the Hifiman HE400 SE (v1) headphones for $69 and so far I’ve only been using them with a regular CX31993 dongle and it’s clear I’m not getting what I could out of them. Can you advise me on a dac/amp that gets the most out of them for the best price? Would a Fiio K11 suffice, for example? Here in my country it sells for $145. Thanks!
Hey Panhouba!
Hmm. Interesting. How much power does that one have? The 400se is admittedly pretty inefficient so it’s likely an issue with power output if I had to guess. K11 is great, but you still may want some extra headroom. I would say the K11, K7, or ATOM are your best options in the entry-level category.
Keep me posted with questions you may have!
-Stu
Hi man. I have HD 560s with sound blaster x4 and I want to upgrade to FIIO k5 pro ess. the k11 and the k7 isn’t an option because both almost double the price of the k5 ess. is it even worth to pay the double? my main usage is gaming. I don’t like the creative any more I had sound blaster z, g6 and thx x4. I don’t know if that correct but I feel creative has clanky sound and the bass isn’t that good so wanted to upgrade specially I can get k5 pro ess for 100$ now. so, what do u think? and btw my experience with HD 560s after two years. I begin to feel it is boring and it need more EQ I have the old version and feel that the headphone became airy I mean it is Muffled. it is like the sound is too far. lowering the bass and making treble higher at some frequencies from oratory helped but it isn’t good anymore for gaming. Thx in advance.
Hey Striker,
Thank you for stopping by! This is rather strange. If the K5 Pro ESS is only $100 where you are, then yes, I would pay $200 for the K7 as I feel that price is fine considering you get a balanced 4.4mm jack (Plus that’s pretty much the normal price where I am).
That said, if the K5 Pro is around it’s normal price of $150, then I’d never pay $300 for a K7 as it’s not a good value at that point. I hope that makes sense. If you don’t plan on using balanced headphones (4.4mm with K7 or K11) then the K5 Pro ESS is fine.
But if you do think you’ll utilize the 4.4mm jack at some point, then I do think the K7 is worth $200. The K11 is normally around $130 where I am which is a great deal. At $200, not so much.
Regarding your experience with the HD560S, that’s exactly what I tell/warn people upfront about lol. I outlined my stance in the 500 Series article and 560S review if you were interested.
But yeah, perfectly said. After awhile, you simply get bored of the sound and that’s something that’s always been the case with 500 series headphones unfortunately. Dull, drab, bleh. It’s why I will never purchase one again after owning a 558 for awhile.
Also, are you saying there are 2 different versions of the 560S? My daily driver for mixing, gaming, film, casual listening is the K702. Definitely worth a look if you’re thinking about switching headphones.
-Stu
Thx very much for the reply. so ill think ill goes for the k5 ess. not planning for the balanced cable at least for now. I’ll buy from Fiio store from Ali express there is a discount there with converting currency and shipping it going to cost 100$. ill check Ur review. I know a lot of reviews praised it so much but after using it for two years. yes it is boring even a gaming headphone like astro a40 is better for me specially the in-game immersion. so do u recommend a specific headphone with a budget like the hd 560s for competitive games then movies but not boring like the hd 560s
Hey man! You’re welcome. Glad to help any time. Yeah as I shared my go-to is the K702 for all of that. In my opinion much better than a 560S. Definitely check out the review of that as well to get a good idea of what you can expect. Please keep me posted on everything!
-Stu
Hey! For an entry level audiophile, just for listening music at home pc, is there significant difference between k7 & k11 coupled with Beyerdynamic DT 990 pro?
Ersun,
Thank you for the question! No there isn’t. If you’d like my explanations about why, Here is my ethos and also check out this video.
The short of it is that you should really only concern yourself with SINAD (Signal to noise and distortion) and Output Impedance. There are other important-ish factors, but they take a backseat in my opinion and in the opinion of actual engineers like John Seaber from the video I linked you.
Hope that helps! If you need a recommendation, just go with the K11 if you don’t need the RCA inputs. If you think you’ll use RCA inputs a lot, get the K7.
Keep me posted!
-Stu
Hi Stu,
What would you prefer between Chord Mojo and K11 for DAC session with active speakers?
Harley,
Thank you for stopping by. Wow what a question!
This may be a bit long but it’s necessary.
If you asked me a couple years ago I would have said Mojo because I still had that bias that it was the second best “sound” I’d heard (Bryston BHA-1 being the first) even though my stance has shifted since that experience + I now attribute it to the incredible realism of the Aeon Closed rather than the Mojo.
So yeah, still love the Mojo and not trashing it (it’s still a great product in my eyes) but I would under no circumstance purchase one over a K11 with the idea that it will “sound” markedly better. It’s just not the case I’m afraid to say and you’ll be lighting money on fire. This comes with 77 Amp/DACs worth of experience and adhering to strict scientific principles of how sound works and not placebo.
So yeah, K11 will be more than fine here.
Hope that helps! Let me know.
-Stu
Thanks Stu. Another question, should I sell Mojo then buy K11 for DAC purpose?
Harley,
I wouldn’t sell the Mojo, no. Are you talking about needing a separate DAC/Amp for preamp duties while the other (presumably Mojo) is for headphones? Or do you simply mean should you sell the Mojo and use the K11 for both preamp and headphones? I suppose you could do that, but if I already had a Mojo I’d probably hang on to it.
Let me know.
-Stu
Hello, I bought a fiio k5 pro ess, is it worth returning it to get the k11? I intend to play on the he400se
Gabriel,
Thank you for stopping by! Are you planning on purchasing balanced cables for the 400se/want to listen that way? Do you not need RCA inputs? If so, I’d say yes, absolutely get a K11. I loved and recommended the K5 Pro for many years, but it’s a bit outdated since the K11 is cheaper and has a balanced headphone output. Please keep me posted with additional questions you may have and if you need a balanced cable recommendation.
-Stu
Hello! I came across your site looking for information for my first dac/amp, due to the cost of importing it to my country I was left between 3 models for exclusively desktop use. The fiio new k3 $160, btr15 $160 (I know is not kinda the same category but I like the additional Bluetooth) and the k11 $210. Now I have a Sennheiser 598 but I was thinking of buying a 560s thats the of the need for a dac/amp. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations on this matter, while I continue enjoying the site.
Cheers
Adrian,
Great question! If you’re going for exclusively desktop, just get a K11. It’s a great product! Check out the article I linked and let me know if you have any questions.
-Stu
I have a K5 Pro – I’m guessing from your comments that there’s no real improvement to upgrading to K9 or K11 – particularly since I’m only using it to drive my headphones (grado 325x) and tiny desk speakers (A2)?
I’ve been considering an upgrade but a lot of this doesn’t really sound like an upgrade
Klaus,
Thank you for stopping by! Nah, in my opinion, there are zero DAC upgrades in terms of “sound.” All the improvements come in the form of practical considerations, versatility, and features. If you’re interested in my take on this, click here for the video.
If you were to upgrade from a K5 Pro, just get a K7 or K7BT since it has the balanced headphone output. The K11 also has one so you may consider that as well since it’s cheaper. That said, it doesn’t have RCA inputs. The K5 Pro was my go-to recommendation for many years but there’s really no reason to buy one anymore since the K11 is cheaper and has a balanced HP output.
Keep me posted with questions.
-Stu
Very nice article, I have a K7 paired with a Beyerdynamic DT 990Pro 250 Ohms. I use it mostly for gaming, movie watching, and music listening, but wish I could get more Bass, do you think getting a K9 would satisfy my Basshead needs?
Marko,
Thank you! And thank you for stopping by. No, pleasssssseeee please please please don’t spend $1,400 (or whatever it is) thinking the DAC is going to make the bass punchier. That is something an elitist snobby audiophile will claim and it’s complete nonsense. In my opinion, the 990 has a perfect bass response, but… if you want some extra slam I’d just EQ 60-90 Hz up a bit more. Do keep in mind it’s already boosted by about 5dB or so, so maybe an extra decibel or 2 will do the trick.
Keep me posted with questions!
-Stu
Stuart,
I just recently discovered your site – and I REALLY appreciate it. In particular, thanks for the review of the K11. I have an older E10K – driving HD558 – and it works great. Nevertheless, I have been thinking about getting something powered. I had just about decided on the K5Pro when I read your review of the K11. So, the question is: if I get a K11 will I actually gain much of anything, other than some pretty nifty aesthetics?
Thanks again,
Jack,
Thank you! I really appreciate you and the vote of confidence as my goal is to help people avoid the audiophile rabbit hole abyss. xD
The K5 Pro was my main recommendation for many years, and it’s still a great product. The only reason I’m not recommending it anymore is because the K11 is $20 cheaper and has a 4.4mm balanced headphone output. So that’s the upgrade in my eyes. It doesn’t have RCA inputs though, so if you really need those, I’d get a K7 since it has both the 4.4mm hp output and RCA ins in addition to the other stuff. There’s really no reason to recommend a K5 Pro anymore UNLESS you never plan on listening balanced, which, you absolutely should haha.
I hope that makes sense. Please let me know and keep me posted man!
-Stu
Hi Stu,
I was wondering will there be a noticeable difference in sound quality, if I switch my Nuforce udac-2 (I bought it more than 10 years ago) to K11. I use it with my laptop and HD 558.
Is it true that K11 r2r sounds warmer (analog like sound) than the original K11? will it be a better purchase (than k11)?
Hey Samat!
I haven’t heard that one but I’m inclined to say no. Do you know the output impedance on the Nuforce? I’m supposed to get a K11 R2R in the mail but haven’t yet. The first got lost in transit and the second hasn’t arrived. I’m fairly annoyed lol. Anyway, I’ve heard R2R dacs like the EF600 and can tell you it’s a lot of marketing and not much substance. So I wouldn’t get too caught up in all that but I will keep you posted regardless.
Talk soon,
-Stu
Hi. That’s like one of the most informative stuff about any kind of products I have ever read. Great work! I came across your site when looking for K7 Bt and K11 R2R reviews. Let me just paste here what I asked about on Reddit:
I am looking for a good 100-300 Euro DAC/AMP for headphones. My PC setup is: ASUS Tuf Gaming B850-PLUS WIFI Motherboard which has 4 + 1 mic analog outputs and sounds OK but it has 5.1 speakers already plugged in so I have my ATH-M40x (35 ohms) headphones plugged into the front panel of my “no name” PC case which obviously sounds noticeable worse and quieter.
I am new to DAC/AMP thing but as far as I can tell I need something that:
– has USB connection and seperate power connection (as far as I can understand separated signal and power connections equals less interference and better sound compared to running both power and signal through 1 cable);
– something that can comfortably drive higher impedance headphones and has both unbalanced and additional balanced output (if I ever want to upgrade to better cans; which I plan to)
– mostly for listening to FLAC music (Metal, Rock, Symphonic, Synthwave).
– either DAC/AMP in one package or combo.
I am not a hardcore audiophile but I do need more clear, louder and slighly higher quality musical experience.
I am looking at: FIIO K7 BT; FiiO K11 R2R; SMSL DL200 and SMSL AO300.
I have never used an AMP or DAC before. ;P
I think I am gonna go with FIIO K7 BT. What is your suggestion? Thanks.
Damian,
Thank you! I’m glad it helped you. Yeah, K7 BT is probably my top choice given everything you said. The K11 is fine, some people think it’s under-powered but I don’t necessarily share that belief. That said, K7 does have more power and you’ll probably appreciate that more. K5 Pro was my long time rec but I have since replaced it with K7 because of the BT + the balanced hp out on the front. Never before has it been easier to listen balanced and you’ll also like that. There are a few other smaller differences between the 2 but I think i outlined them in this article IIRC. I hope that helps! I know you’re new so please don’t go down the amp/dac rabbit hole because you won’t be coming back out. xD
Please keep me posted with questions!
-Stu
Hi again.
I went with FIIO K7 BT. I have been testing it for a few days now and so far I love what I hear. I have my PC system volume maxed and K7 on Low Gain at around 2 o’clock and my ATH-M40x sound loud enough and clear. The PC case front panel can go and f#$! itself, haha.
I won’t go down the rabbit hole, though. I may, if I ever hear any difference between FLAC and 320 kbps mp3 but so far, no matter how hard I try, I hear no difference at all. Maybe with better cans…
What wired, balanced headphones (for Metal, Rock, Symphonic and Synthwave) would you recommend? Maybe open back just to give me different experience than ATH-M40x. I am thinking about flat monitors but I do love that punchy 80’s drum sound. Budget is around 300 €/$. Thanks.
Damian,
So glad you’re enjoying the K7 BT! Fantastic product. My best rec for Metal and Rock is something like an FT1, DT990 or HD25. They will all give you that perfect slam without the bloat. If you’re interested in why this is so important, check out the best headphones for hip-hop. This article goes into why tuning bass correctly is so crucial. If you need something flatter, let me know.
Talk soon!
-Stu
Hi Stuart,
First of all, thank you for all the good work, it is refreshing to see a page that is easy to understand and that doesn’t tell you you need a 5k USD DAC/Amp and a pair of 1k gold plated cables to get good sound. When I bought my first DAC about 9 years ago, this was all one could find and, after reading tons of pages, I settled for the now vanished LH Labs Geek Out V2+ Infinity, which was what I could afford at that time. Now, after 9 years, it is slowly dying on me and I’ve started a search for a replacement. Most web sites go to DACs that start at the 400-500k USD mark and going well above, and dismiss options in the 150-200k range as basic and for mobile use only.
My setup is very simple, a DAC connected to my Win11 PC using Audirvana 3.5 with its remote to be able to switch quickly between my library and streaming services, comfortably sitting in my couch. Connected to this, my Shure SRH1540 headphones. Finally to the questions: from all that I read in your article and the comments, it looks like the K11 should be more than enough to drive these and provide a good listening experience? On some forums, I’ve even seen users stating that for the HP I have, a DAC actually doesn’t even make a difference and that a good EQ setup would be enough? I’m a bit sceptical about that, as I can definitely hear some difference with and without my DAC connected. What is your take on such a statement? Surely, even an entry-level DAC will be better than the native PC’s one?
Thank you!
Wilfried,
Yeah man! My pleasure and thank you for the kind words. Always remember this: Any new DAC will always be replaced with another “new” dac, and it gets worse every day. I’m pretty much done with them completely at this point, but I haven’t heard of the one you mention! And yeah, you should be more than fine with a K11 given the 1540’s easy to drive specs. Those forums are absolutely correct and it’s refreshing to hear that there are still people with some sense left. Most of the time it’s “you need a b c d e and don’t forget the entire alphabet before you can listen to music” It’s infuriating. Anyway, I guess it would depend on the quality of your PC’s soundcard. Do you feel as though you get good audio out of it? Because I’ll be honest with you: I’ve tested my Lenovo X1 Extreme with a few Amp/DACs and there was literally no difference.
Anyway, hope to chat soon.
-Stu
Hi Stu,
Thanks for the feedback. My PC is an all-in-one, so the sound is pretty much basic, a standard RealTek chip set on the motherboard, so nothing really fancy. Also, it’s clearly not recognised by Audirvana as the sound comes out jittery, even switching off all options of upsampling and so… So, I think I’ll go for the K11 which where I live sells for around 130 $.
Wilfried
Wilfried,
My pleasure. Yeah that sounds like a plan! Please let me know how it goes and keep me posted on your impressions of the K11.
Best,
-Stu
Stu,
My K11 finally arrived a few days ago. First impressions confirm that there is a lot of placebo in this area, as you say. I can hear no lower quality than my former, much more expensive, DAC. If anything, it seems that some recordings sound a bit clearer, maybe the “no filter” option of the K11 is helping here and my previous DAC may have tainted the sound. But them it’s maybe because I’m paying more attention too. Whatever it is, I’m quite happy with the sound I get and am glad to have found your blog when I did, as I was eyeing the Chord Mojo 2 as a replacement, which would have cost me 4 times the price of the K11 with no benefit at all.
Thank you again!
Wilfried
Wilfried,
So glad you’re enjoying it! Please do keep me posted on any and all impressions and don’t hesitate to reach out if you need a hand.
-Stu