Greetings mate and Welcome aboard!!
Stuart Charles here, HomeStudioBasics.com helping YOU make sound decisions leading to a beautiful audio experience that will make you fall in love with music (NOT gear) all over again, so…
Before we get into the Best Portable Headphone Amps & DACs, grab some snacks, kick back and relax because…
I’m Here to Help!!
I’m going to list out the DACS I think you should focus on and then give an explanation of why I chose so few towards the end.
I’ll also include my Criteria for choosing as well as my main specs to focus on with each recommendation.
#5
iFi Go Link
Price: Check Amazon! | Check B&H! | Official Review: Here!
- Connection(s): USB Type-C, USB Type-C to Type-A adapter (PC/Laptop), Type-C to Lightning adapter (Phone)
- Bluetooth: No
- Line Out: Yes
- Balanced: No
- DSD: Yes, up to 256
- Support: 384kHz, MQA
- Signal-to-noise Ratio: 125dBA
- Output Power: ≥1.5V/70mW @ 32Ω; ≥2V/14mW @300Ω
After a long time of not recommending anything new, iFi finally delivered a great product at an even better price point.
The Go Link is the perfect dongle for new folks and comes with a super convenient Type-C to Lightning adapter for Apple iPhone users.
I was up and running in 4.256 seconds with my iPhone 11 and can’t recommend it enough.
It utilizes the Sabre DAC chip (an admitted favorite of mine), and while power output could use a bit of a boost, it works well for most headphones I have lying around.
If you do need to drive more demanding, inefficient headphones, I would probably steer clear of the Go Link, as it’s simply going to be a bit underpowered and doesn’t have a balanced option. That said, for low-impedance headphones with higher sensitivity, this DAC is fantastic and still gets plenty of daily use.
#4
Hidizs S9 Pro
Price: Check Amazon! | Check Hidizs! | Official Review: Here!
- Connection(s): USB Type-C
- Bluetooth: No
- Line Out: Yes. This simply means you can hook it up to separate speakers like the Presonus Eris e3.5
- Balanced: Yes, 2.5mm
- DSD: Yes, up to 512
- Support: 32-bit/768kHz
- Signal-to-noise Ratio: 120dB
- Output Power: 200mW @ 32Ω (Single-ended), 400mW @ 32Ω (Balanced)
Starting things off is a DAC that I’ve come to absolutely adore, if only for the simple fact that it’s a much better value than both the DragonFly Red and Cobalt – the former of which I recommended for quite a few years on this blog, and the latter of which I NEVER recommended.
Why?
It was overpriced when it came out and is still overpriced now.
The S9 Pro essentially gives you the same 9038Q2M DAC chip found in the Cobalt for 1/3 of the price.
Read that again:
The S9 Pro essentially gives you the same 9038Q2M DAC chip found in the Cobalt for 1/3 of the price.
And as much as I loved the DragonFly Red, I think it’s overpriced in today’s climate, whereas a few years ago, it wasn’t.
The DragonFly Red doesn’t have a balanced jack, and that’s typically how I listen nowadays.
You probably will, too.
Remember, we’re always looking for the best value when it comes to DACs.
The S9 Pro is just that – a fantastic value and perfect for users on the go or at home.
It feels very light (and admittedly a bit cheap) but happens to be incredibly durable, and I’ve had no issues since receiving one in 2022.
If you’re so inclined, it supports up to 32-bit/768kHz and DSD512.
- Related: What Is DSD In Audio?
#3
iFi hip-dac
Price: Check Amazon! | Check B&H! | Official Review: Here! | hip-dac 2 Review: Here! | hip-dac 3 Review: Here!
- Connection(s): USB Type-C (charging), USB Type-A (listening)
- Bluetooth: No
- Line Out: Yes
- Balanced: Yes, 4.4mm
- DSD: Yes, up to 256
- Support: 32-bit/384kHz
- Signal-to-noise Ratio: Not specified
- Output Power: 400mW @ 16Ω
There are 5 reasons why I’m recommending the hip-dac:
- It has a gain switch and bass boost and some folks absolutely need those things.
- iFi products are built incredibly well and I’ve never once had a single issue with any of them.
- It’s very portable and you probably won’t mind attaching it to your phone.
- It has a balanced 4.4mm option.
- It’s priced right, and under no circumstance would I recommend you spend roughly $50 more for the upgraded hip-dac 2 or hip-dac 3.
Just don’t do it. They are the same exact thing.
The build, buttons, and connections, down to the tiny text on the underside. It’s all 100% identical.
The hip-dac 3 does represent a couple of notable changes, but only on the connection/technical side. Sound is the same across the 3 models.
In fact, I’m fully convinced iFi colored the hip-dac 2 orange and called it a day.
#2
Fosi Audio DS2
Price: Check Amazon | Official Review: Here
- Connection(s): USB Type-C
- Bluetooth: No
- Line Out: Yes
- Balanced: Yes, 4.4mm
- DSD: Yes, up to 256
- Support: 32-bit/384kHz
- Signal-to-noise Ratio: 130dB
- Output Power: 128mW @ 32Ω
If there’s one thing constant in change, it’s life.
Strike that, reverse it.
Previously holding the #2 spot was iFi’s Go Link, a DAC I recommended after not recommending new DACs for a long time. I liked it because it was cheap and drives most headphones just fine.
But it’s now outclassed.
Enter Fosi Audio’s DS2; a similar dongle Amp/DAC at an almost identical price with a balanced 4.4mm jack.
Seems pretty obvious to recommend it over the Go Link, yeah?
It’s built well, comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable, USB-C to USB-A adapter, and drives all of my headphones much more easily on desktop.
After comparing the 2 side by side, I found that each provides roughly the same power output through my phone, but the DS2 seems to be more powerful through my PC. With it, I’m at about 40/100 for a comfortably loud signal with an AKG K702, but the Go Link requires 70+.
The only downside is compatibility. If you have an iPhone older than 15, you’ll need some sort of adapter or aftermarket OTG cable, as Apple is phasing out the lightning connection. Super annoying, but hey, I’m old and have an iPhone 11.
#1
FiiO BTR17
Price: Check Amazon! | Official Review: Here!
- Connection(s): USB Type-C
- Bluetooth: Yes, BT 5.4
- Line Out: Yes
- Balanced: Yes, 4.4mm
- DSD: Yes, up to 512 native
- Support: 32-bit/768kHz
- Signal-to-noise Ratio: ≥126dB
- Output Power: 560mW @ 32Ω, 62mW @ 300Ω (Single-ended, desktop mode), 1,300mW @ 32Ω, 250mW @ 300Ω (Balanced, desktop mode)
FiiO’s BTR17 represents the best in the series, and after recommending the BTR5 for a long time, I do think this is a better all-around product. It’s also the most useful here, combining everything you need into one package: Bluetooth (wireless) with a phone, wired with a phone, or wired on your desk. Moreover, it’s a preamp as well and can be connected to separate speakers like the FiiO SP3.
- Required Reading: FiiO’s BTR Series
Differentiating itself from the others in the BTR series, it adds a combo volume knob + button (used to navigate the menu), loads more power (560mW into 32Ω), a better, larger display with gorgeous fonts and great readability, the unit itself is larger and more intuitive to use, and it comes with a nifty leatherette carrying sleeve.
It’s not so tiny that it becomes annoying to use, but not overly bulky to the point of not being portable anymore.
While the BTR13 and 15 were largely underwhelming to me and, at most, sidegrades, the BTR17 is a clear upgrade in my opinion and a perfect companion for those needing a portable, versatile, well-built DAC.
Learn More:
With that in mind, what are some good criteria you should look out for when deciding on the best portable headphone Amps & DACs?
Criteria
Power Output
It’s important to know how much power is supplied to various Impedance loads.
If you have a 300 Ohm headphone like the HD600, you’ll want to make sure to purchase an Amp that outputs enough power into that load.
That said, all of the above options supply plenty, and I’ve never had an issue with them.
Features & Versatility
We’re looking at portable options, but do you need some extra features with your purchase?
Things like bass boost, gain, Bluetooth, line-out functionality, etc. are all things to keep in mind.
Phone Compatibility
Do you intend to use it with your phone?
If so, you’ll want a combo Amp/DAC since there’s only one piece of equipment to worry about.
Buying an Amp and DAC separately makes for a much more difficult time.
A Bluetooth DAC provides extra convenience, hence why the BTR17 is first on the list.
With that, what does Portable actually mean?
I looked up the term out of curiosity.
Portable – Adjective.
- Able to be easily carried or moved, especially because being of a lighter and smaller version than usual.
- synonyms: transportable, moveable, mobile, transferable, easily carried, easy to carry.
So, what’s my recommendation today?
Recommendation & Final Word
If I had to choose one Amp/DAC on this list for portability, it would most certainly be the BTR17.
It perfectly fits the description of what we’re looking for.
It can be used on your desktop or with a phone via wire or Bluetooth, it’s the most portable Amp/DAC on this list, its sound is phenomenal, it’s super easy to use, and it’s priced well.
Interested in my top portable option?
Video Discussion
Don’t forget to leave me some love and subscribe! Also, keep in mind that the article here has updated options, while the video is what it is. 🙂
My Reasoning & Philosophy
- Read my Ethos here.
Even just a few years back, there weren’t nearly as many Amps & DACs as there are today.
In fact,
There are way too many at this point.
I’m almost completely done with them at this point, and I’ll tell you why.
I’ve demoed 80+, and the differences, while generally apparent, are incredibly subtle.
So if you’re reading this, you’re in the right place.
The DACs listed in this article are the only ones you’ll need to consider.
Think of DACs like pencils: there are millions of pencils in the world, but they all serve one purpose and one purpose only: to write sh** on paper.
OK, fine. 2 purposes. To write and erase. Writing is the main one, though.
DAC/Amps are very similar in that they also serve 2 main purposes.
- They provide a digital-to-analog conversion.
- The amp portion amplifies the sound so you can hear it.
That’s it.
- Related: What is a USB DAC?
Are some pencils better than others? Yeah, probably.
Are some DACs better than others?
That’s highly debatable.
99% of the differences you hear from track to track have everything to do with the way it was recorded, mixed, and mastered, and very little to do with the DAC.
Those are basic sound engineering principles that will never change.
Headphones also play an important role, but I’d say the song itself is the main indicator of how music will sound to you.
Here’s a great explanation I recently received from Stephen Mejias of Audioquest:
It’s important to keep in mind that these differences are pretty marginal and probably won’t be caught by anyone except people like me who have many on hand to vigorously go back and forth with!
What does vary a lot more?
Output Impedance and Power Output are of paramount importance.
Why is that?
It’s because headphone Impedance and Sensitivity ratings are different from headphone to headphone.
If you are unfamiliar with these terms, don’t fret! Here are a couple of great articles I wrote on the matter.
Some headphones will work better with certain Amps simply because the Amp in question provides plenty of Power for the headphones’ Impedance level.
Output Impedance is also pretty important, as DACs with a lower number generally = a more neutral representation of music.
But, the main consideration and something you should always keep in the back of your mind is SINAD (signal-to-noise and distortion).
As far as DACs are concerned, this is arguably the most important aspect, but one that’s not quite as complicated as you may think.
Generally, anything above the 90dB standard is more than enough for a phenomenal listening experience, and in reality, most DACs advertise numbers way above this.
What it means is that as long as the DAC has a Signal-to-noise ratio above this number, you can expect there to be a completely clean signal, free of distortion.
Watch this video to understand why it’s so important:
Closing Thoughts
This article used to be littered with options, but over the years I’ve whittled it down more and more.
Why?
My extensive experience with DACS (now 80+) has taught me that they are almost irrelevant to your musical experience.
They’re just tools used to complete a task.
In this case, converting digital information into the analog sound that your brain comprehends.
Nothing more, nothing less.
I also started noticing an alarming trend in wildly varying price points for an array of different DACS: They all sounded the same.
That’s right; you heard me correctly.
$329 Go Bar? Yup, sounds the same as something in the $100 range. You’re basically paying for the “newness factor” or “Shiny object” which quickly fades when another DAC comes out.
The cycle then repeats.
In other words, their “unique sound signature,” as people like to put it, had absolutely no effect on how my music sounded. Put simply, it doesn’t exist.
And I listen to A LOT of music.
This is why I’d rather you just save money and get the one with the best overall value – i.e. the most sensible price point for the features you’re receiving.
Right now, it’s the BTR17 until something better comes along.
I sincerely hope you’ll keep these things in mind the next time a new DAC comes out.
Well, that’s about it for today my friend! I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on The Best Portable Headphone Amps & DACs.
Questions? Comments? Requests? Did I miss the mark on something? Please let me know down below or Contact me!!
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Which of these are you most likely to go with? Do you have any to add or take away from this list? I would love to hear from you. Until next time…
All the best and God bless,
-Stu
28 comments
I’ve hit your site a couple times after seeing your YT videos. Currently wondering if I should get a FiiO K3 or an ifi Zen DAC v1 from ebay. I doubt there’s a right answer for me, both should be a DAC upgrade and let me get better headphones.
Hey Steve! Yeah, the differences there will be fairly marginal. Both do balanced but the K3 is 2.5mm vs. 4.4 for Zen so almost a wash as well.
FWIW, I use the Zen pretty much every day whereas I don’t use the K3 nearly as often. I’d go with a Zen and if you do any console gaming, get the V2.
Hope that helps! Let me know.
Hey Stu ! Thanks for this I went with the Dragonfly Red. I’ve literally had it for two hours. It sounds great, that said I do feel like I need to adjust a bit like my ears aren’t used to hearing this much on my phone. LOL! Thanks agian!
Haha my pleasure man! Yeap, that’s exactly what happens with the DragonFly. Very eye-opening indeed like a cold shower!! It’s good you like!
Hey Stu. What are your thoughts on the following setup: smartphone – Fiio Ka1 – Topping NX7 – Hifiman Arya. Sound quality wise, is the Ka1 the weak link in this setup, or is it up to the task.
Hey Hennie! Haven’t heard the Ka1 or NX7. Arya isn’t terribly hard to drive. Do you know the output power on those dacs?
Any thoughts on the Hidizs DH80s? Really curious on your take since that offers more power in the off chance you need to power something less efficient.
Haven’t heard that one, but I will reach out to them about it!
Hello,
I’ve recently bought HD660s headphones and listen to music on my laptop.
I would preferably buy a portable dac/amp such as iFi Hip-dac 2, but I wonder whether FiiO K5Pro or FiiO K7 would be much better choice in terms of sound quality and sound features. What are your thought.
Hey man!
Yeah, my top 2 for desktop entry-level/mid-level are FiiO K5 Pro or ATOM. So if you think you’ll be doing a lot of listening at your desk, I’d look at those first.
Keep me posted!
_Stu
Hi Stuart, great reviews and I really appreciate them. My question, and I don’t have much technical knowledge when it comes to this subject, ..I recently ordered a HD600, stepping up from a ATH-M50. I’m in need of an amp/dac combo that’s portable. Mainly because I don’t always have a powerpoint near me in the house. What is you’re best recommendation (on a ‘budget’) for a portable amp/dac that, if it has the option of a balanced connection, can power the headphone without using the balanced option (yet). I’m in Australia and the Hidizs S9 Pro doesn’t seem very available here. Also, I mainly use it to listen music on my iPad, but might connect it to my old Pioneer AVR in the future as my cd player and turntable are all hooked in to this as well.
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!
Jeff,
Thank you for your kind words! I would say the FiiO BTR5 is pretty great as it’s powerful enough unbalanced but you sill have the option for a balanced connection later. You can also use it via Bluetooth if you want.
Keep me posted with questions.
Cheers,
-Stu
Hi Stuart
Amazing review and thanks for it!
I saw in your presentation about Hidizs S9 Pro, mentioning something about Presonus Eris e3.5..
My question :D, its Hidizs S9 Pro powerful enough to use it for Presonus Eris e3.5 and also for MEZE 99 classics?
I have a pair of Presonus Eris e3.5 bot no amplification added and I would like to buy in the future a pair of Meze 99 Classics, which also needs a DAC, its Hidizs S9 Pro enough for both? 😀
Thanks again and good day,
Bogdan
Bogdan,
Thank you for the kind words! Yeah, S9 Pro is just fine!
As for amplification, yeah, you could do that. Since you have the 99 Classics which don’t need much, I think it’s perfectly fine.
One option that’s tempting for me to recommend to you is the JDS ATOM Amp + ATOM DAC which acts as both a preamp and headphone amp. The difference here is you just press a button to switch + it’s made for desktop while the S9 is more of a portable DAC.
That said, do you plan on buying more headphones? i.e. have you gone down the rabbit hole yet? If you haven’t, maybe I should spare you. xD
-Stu
Thanks Stu for your fast answer 🙂
Initially I was thinking about Focusrite Scarlett Solo 4th Gen, but after I ve got the 99 classics I figure out that I could also take take them with me and listen on my phone, but for that I need a portable DAC and when I saw on your review that S9 works with both Presonous and 99 classics, I said perfect! 😀
But yeah, the JDS ATOM Amp + ATOM DAC doesn’t sound bad, unfortunately aren’t too portable 😀
Regarding more headphones, I have also a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBK and switched to 99 classics (another world) :O
Best
Bogdan
Bogdan,
No problem! Yeah man, if you need portable + desktop, S9 Pro is great and I love it. Do keep in mind it is pretty light. You may be taken aback by this as I was, but it’s a great product and I’ve had no issues with it. It also drives the K702 easily so you won’t have to worry if you ever upgrade to less efficient/higher impedance headphones. I forgot to ask this, but what phone are you using?
-Stu
Stu,
I m using right now an Iphone 13, but I m thinking to switch to an Google phone or Samsung galaxy 😀
Best
Bogdan
Got it. That’s the one thing. Yesterday I tried using the Go Link’s USB-C to lightning adapter with the S9 Pro and my iPhone 11 and it didn’t work for whatever reason.
Today I tested some other DACS I have here including the Go Bar, BTR15, and DragonFly Red.
They all work perfectly fine with the same iPhone and either USB-C to USB-C with the USB-C to lightning adapter, or a USB-C to lightning cable. The only explanation I have is that Hidizs made the S9 Pro proprietary which is hugely irritating. They could have at least included their own version of the USB-C to lightning adapter in the package.
Because of that, you may want to bypass the S9 unless of course you get a new phone as you mentioned. Just make sure it has USB-C. I think most do nowadays.
-Stu
Hi Stu, one glaring missing portable dac/amp/peq example is the Korean-made Qudelix 5K. It’s $99 on Drop or $109 on Amazon. It’s got the technical chops, dual chips, plenty of power and most importantly excellent BT and parametric EQ. AutoEQ is included as well. XFeed too, something I’ve not read you write about. Way back in the late ’90s I had a Jan Maier analog headphone amp with multiple crossfeed circuits to choose from…I’ve never left home without it since.
It’s hard for me to overstate the freedom of good wired headphones in wireless mode with the Qudelix. I use an iPhone 13 with Fiio BT11 for LDAC connection. The Qudelix clipped to my collar and phone in my pocket. Bliss.
I encourage you to give it a spin sometime.
Brett,
I’ve heard rumblings about the 5K! And even though I’m pretty burnt out on DACs, just for you I will see if I can give it a go. No promises, but I’ll write it down 🙂
I have an iPhone 11 and my current DACs include the Go Link, BTR13/15 (as I’m testing those). I also still use a DF Red from time to time, but I have endless amounts of dacs here lol. I actually have the BT11 and need to get started on the demo/review.
What are your thoughts on iPhones?
-Stu
I agree with your basis that DACs themselves are much more a like than not. The surrounding implementation matters so much more. That said, my 2-channel has the HoloAudio May DAC at it’s core 😉 It’s fantastic…but that’s a story for another day/forum.
The 5K really shines in that it’s like 26g! and has 20 slots for custom PEQ. I find that depending on my mood or energy level I’ll use a different curve for the same headphone not to ‘fix’ but to ‘spice to taste’. The app included with the 5K is as good as it gets. Their ‘propreitary’ XFeed is is quite good too with 0-50 variability.
Re: iPhone; My (former as of 2 weeks ago, retired at 57 years young) employer of 30 years has issued iPhones since they were a thing so that’s what I’ve always used. Sucks that Apple feels that 250k AAC is good enough…but the truth is it is good enough for 99.9% of the ‘listening’ population.
The BT11 opens up all the aptX and to my ears even better LDAC. Currently fixed at 660kbps but in a couple weeks the next fw version is purported to include 330k and 990k selectable. I have zero dropouts as I carry the phone with me and the 5K about 2′ away on a short 0.5m balanced cable clipped to my collar. Freedom to roam the compound! Only the 15 and 16 have USB-C so I have to use the Apple dongle with USB-A adapter for the BT11 but dang the extra bandwidth is so worth it.
I struggle to decide if I like 2V or 4V driving Ananda Stealth with the 5K. 4V recesses the mids a touch but controls the bass ever so slightly more firmly. Easy to (P)EQ either to match. Of course, 4V burns through the battery faster. Oh and 2V is slightly higher gain. Noise is a non-issue. I’ve never been able to hear any noise/hiss from the 5K.
On another related note. I’ve run Roon since they were fresh out of the gate, ~8 years. It’s pretty solid now but I also know it quite well. Compared to the EF600/400, the EF499/500 both have Ethernet ports and thus act as network streamers. Roon-ready (RAAT), upnp/dlna. Add a $20 wifi bridge to make it wireless.
Should I get an email when these discussions are updated? I’ve yet to so far.
Hey man!
What iPhone are you using the BT11 with? I have an iPhone 11 with lightning port and using it with a USB-C to lightning adapter and this is the buggiest POS I’ve ever used lol. I don’t even know where to begin.
It’s currently working by some stroke of miraculous dumb luck after me trying to get it to connect for an hour. I literally asked God to make it work. xD
First it wouldn’t enter pairing mode through the FiiO Control App, then it did randomly, then it wouldn’t, then I rebooted my phone (dozens of times), unplugged/replugged, disabled BT, enabled, deleted the device from FiiO Control (dozens of times), added it, cleared pairing, then it connected through the App and I saw it in my BT settings even though no music would play, then it disappeared, then it connected even though it said Connection failed, I reset to factory settings which worked once and then never again, then it showed a pulsing light indicating connected but didn’t work, then it was somehow flashing blue and red even though it showed it was already paired, then it was paired and playing music but no sound, and on and on. That’s most of it.
Right now it’s working and transmitting through the BTR15 to my FiiO FT1, but it doesn’t even appear in the Bluetooth list. Apparently FiiO is still ironing out some major kinks with it. Just unplugged it and plugged it back in and it’s still working thankfully. What a strange experience. I guess the good news is that once it finally decides to work properly, you don’t really have to worry about it. FiiO also says it may not be compatible with iPhones that have a lightning port (mine), but I read other people had no issues. It’s incredibly finicky and temperamental for sure. I will definitely NOT be re-pairing it ever even though sometimes the Control App doesn’t work properly either as far as registering commands and what not.
Going to do some A/B testing with it vs. just a standard BTR15 connection on its own and report back. Also going to test some BT headphones and see if there’s a difference.
As for the email, yes I will reply here or email you about the HIFIMAN stuff. Thanks for reminding me as I’m going to work on that next week (hopefully Monday).
Gotta head out in a bit but I will get to your other comment soon so no worries.
-Stu
I’m using iPhone 13 so also Lightning port however I’m using Apple lightning to usb and pass thru charge dongle with the bt11. I’ve read about the struggles you encountered but I’m happy to say I had no issues with setup, pairing or use.
I understand the BT11 was designed for iPhone 15/16 with usb-c port. Android is problematic as is older iPhone.
Brett,
Interesting. Yeah I read that too about iPhone 15/16. I feel like FiiO should just make it compatible with all iPhones no questions asked. It finally started working yesterday as mentioned but now it’s basically a vegetable and won’t even pair anymore. It’s essentially stuck in pairing mode and won’t do anything except flash blue and red. Oh well. If you were curious, I did hear a pretty significant difference with the LDAC codec vs. BTR15 using AAC which I thought was pretty neat. So I think it could be a great product with a firmware update. Right now it’s basically unusable. Review coming soon so stay tuned for my complete thoughts.
Hey can you link me to the HFM article you were referring to that needs an update? Is it this one? Lmk..
-Stu
Hello and happy new year ☺️ Can you recommend an amplifier for the akg 702 bluetooth up to €100? I want to make headphones portable and the fewer cables for me the better. I have a bluetooth receiver and I was surprised because somehow it works as an amplifier much better than on my PC. Also explain to me, the more output power the better or is that not true? The akg 702 have less power, the treble is stronger and with the k11 it is more controlled in the treble and much better in the bass but there are no headphones that can have very strong bass or very strong treble if they have a lot of power and with less, are they better? Thanks
Roberto,
Great to hear from you! Happy New Year! I still have 10 hours to go heh.
I’m really digging the BTR17. Lots of power and yeah, I’m not a power whore like some people who whine and complain a lot, but it’s nice to have some headroom and the BTR17 easily provides the most out of the lineup.
Not quite sure what you’re asking in that second part. The 702 doesn’t have “power” it does need some since it’s pretty inefficient, but it’s still not all that hard to drive.
“the treble is stronger and with the k11 it is more controlled in the treble and much better in the bass but there are no headphones that can have very strong bass or very strong treble if they have a lot of power and with less, are they better?”
Again, the K11 has no bearing on the 702’s treble at all. We’ve discussed this many times with regard to what DACs are and aren’t. 🙂
As for the last part of your question, I’m not quite sure what you’re asking! Please clarify.
Anyway, talk soon man! I will be away for part of the day tomorrow (1/1/25) but will be back in the later portion.
-Stu
Last question haha
What is the difference in terms of sound between the fiio btr15 and the fiio k11? They say one is more colorful and the other more neutral, but according to you, they are all neutral, right? Is there any difference when using akg? Thanks
Roberto,
How many times have we discussed this, and you’re still asking the same question about “sound” differences in DACs for the last 6 months now. No. One isn’t more “colorful.” DACs DO NOT have a sound signature. HEADPHONES do. For the millionth time. What do I have to do to convince you to stop listening to all the BS? Respectfully, I’m losing my patience at this point.