The Best Budget Headphone Amplifier
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Updates:
- 2/10/19.
- 8/16/19. Fixed typo for DAC Magic 100 to RCA Outs, not Ins.
3,356 word post, approx 7-8 min read.
Hey there friend, and Welcome aboard!!
Before we get into the Best Budget Headphone Amplifier, grab a snack, sit back and relax because…
You’ve come to the right place!!
What I will bring you in this article
- Why Should You Trust Me?
- Introduction
- How to determine if you need an Amp
- How to determine if you need a DAC
- The Players
- Quick note on high end gear
- Final Word
Now without further ado, let’s get rolling!!
Why Should You Trust Me?
Because I know what I’m talking about. I haz an education!
Lol. I’m being funny but I’m also serious.
I don’t have fancy credentials like some people (and I don’t think that automatically means you’re legit by the way), but like Craig Boyles said about me on his website Mage Audio,
“Stu knows headphones. He’s reviewed over 70 of them on his website.”
I’ve been a headphone enthusiast for as long as I can remember, ever since I had a pair (or 8) of Sony MDR V150’s. I’ve loved music and everything about it for equally as long. I’ve been making and producing music for over 10 years, and have learned a lot about EQ and sound a long the way. I’ve sold beats, I’ve given them away, I’ve collaborated with a lot of people, and I’ve had a lot of fun.
I’ve had plenty of experience with high end amps, entry level ones, and anything in between. I don’t claim to know everything, but do I know what sounds good and what doesn’t. I know what’s worth your money and what can be glossed over and discarded.
See what I’ve demoed on my Reviews Page!
I also know how and why stuff works..
Check out my Resources Page for more helpful information!!
The Main Reason
The biggest reason to trust me is that I’m just like you! I do an exhaustive amount of research before I purchase anything, and don’t stop searching just because I own a product. I keep up with trends, reviews, blogs, and stay immersed in this niche because I’m truly passionate about it and care a great deal about it as well.
My Goal is to Help You
In addition that, I receive emails, comments, and testimonials fairly frequently from people thanking me profusely for what I do here, and for making such great recommendations specific to their need. It’s refreshing to be able to connect with people from all over the world and help them make the best decisions possible with regards to studio equipment and anything music production related! I truly love and enjoy conversing with you all, because I’m passionate about this stuff!
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Learn more about me:
- About Stu
- Site Origins and Logo History
- My Thought Process
- The Law of Diminishing Returns (The Truth About Audio Gear)
Other accomplishments
- Bachelor of Fine Arts, Graphic Design – Western Carolina University (2010 – 2013), 3.2 GPA
- Best in Class for Painting – Western Carolina University – Spring 2012. See the painting here on my other site!
If you have any other questions, let me know!
With that let’s get into the meat of this thing!
Introduction
Choosing the best budget headphone amp doesn’t have to be complicated.
There are some great options out there and before it’s all said and done you may not ever need to upgrade beyond the more affordable category.
Some of these will even power headphones up to 300 Ohms and above.
In case you were wondering, there are some criteria to consider when deciding on if you should buy an amp in the first place.
Let’s find out!
How to determine if you need an Amp
Current and Voltage
Headphones need Current and Voltage, but some need more of one or the other depending on the headphone in question.
A good analogy would be the following:
- Think of current as the volume of water in a bucket.
- Think of voltage as the water pressure (PSI).
- Think of impedance as the size of the hose nozzle.
- A high impedance headphone = Tiny nozzle. They need a lot of voltage (pressure) or power to function properly.
- A low impedance headphone = Is like filling a bucket with water. It requires more flow (current) but not a lot of pressure (voltage).
Voltage continued
We can also use something as simple as an Amp’s spec sheet.
For instance, the Schiit Magni 3 provides 430mW of power (voltage) into 300 Ohms.
The Sennheiser HD600 only requires 20mW to perform optimally.
You can see why the Magni is such a great purchase. It will effectively power 99% of headphones without question.
Method 2
You can also go by an Amp’s output impedance, and use the 1/8th rule.
The closer to zero, the better. There is some debate out there on this method.
Some will say that because old school equipment/receivers have a higher output impedance but still work really well with headphones, the philosophy or methodology is thus false and the number 0 in this scenario doesn’t really matter.
For me this wasn’t true with the HD600 out of my dad’s receiver. The sound was pretty God awful and in no way ideal.
Professional grade headphones just won’t cut it because the higher output impedance from the source results in a drop in voltage to the headphone itself. This manifests in lower impedance models especially, to the extent that a source with 50 Ohms of Output Impedance can’t even power a 32 Ohm headphone! That’s not ideal.
A higher output impedance also means the power to the headphone will change and behave erratically which mirrors my experience with the HD600 out of a standard receiver.
NwAvGuy (Northwest Audio Video Guy) who is responsible for the creation of the fantastic JDS Labs 02 Amplifier wrote a great article on this.
- Learn more: Headphone & Amp Impedance
- Check out my official review: JDS Labs Objective 2 Headphone Amp Review!
The calculation for this method is fairly straightforward:
- Take the Impedance of the Headphone. In this case we’ll use the HD600, which is 300 Ohms.
- Divide 300/8 to get 37.5.
- Next, check the output impedance of the amp. We’ll use the Schiit Magni 3, which is less than 0.3 Ohms.
- To ensure that the amp in question will work, make sure that the output impedance never exceeds the Headphone Impedance. In our case it doesn’t. 0.3 Ohms is astronomically less than 37.5. We’ve got a winner!
Learn more:
The main takeaway is to only purchase amps that have an output impedance of 2 or under. A quick google search will do wonders in determining this number on a spec sheet.
How to determine if you need a DAC
A DAC is simply a Digital to Analog Converter. Learn more: Bit Depth vs. Sample Rate.
It’s job is to convert the digital 1’s and 0’s that your computer understands into analog data that we can understand.
A good external DAC is only necessary if:
- Your PC’s internal DAC (Soundcard) sounds like poop. What is a Soundcard?
- Your PC’s internal DAC (Soundcard) doesn’t produce a sound that’s loud enough.
The second was my major issue with my Lenovo T510. Even plugging in a headphone with high sensitivity gave me issues in the volume level not sufficing. What is Sensitivity in Headphones?
Back in 2014, my remedy was to buy an audio interface and hook it up to some Studio Monitors. The interface also acts as an Amp/DAC for your headphones, and results in a much better sound than the one out of your standard PC or laptop.
Even despite the fact that the Scarlett 2i2’s output impedance is about 10, it still works pretty well with lower impedance and higher impedance headphones. I did notice a difference in comparing the sound quality out of it vs. an amp proper like the Schiit Magni or an Objective 2. The sound coming out of a dedicated amp with a headphone like the HD600 is just tighter and more focused.
That said, I bought the Interface at that time specifically to plug in a condenser microphone and also to power my studio monitors. What are Studio Monitors?
The added benefit of plugging in headphones was simply the cherry on top.
Fortunately, most machines and phones nowadays have pretty good internal DACs, so you may not even need a DAC.
But..
The good news is that adding one of these will only benefit you in the long run, especially if you decide to add more headphones and/or upgrade in the future.
The best way to find out is just to buy a set of headphones and evaluate the sound. If you’re not satisfied, an Amp/DAC combo is the best solution.
That segways perfectly into the best budget headphone amplifiers that we’ll discuss today. I’ll outline Amp/DACs in the below $100 category and from $100-300. Anything more than that in my opinion is probably not budget anymore.
Let’s take a look!
Budget
Under $100
FiiO E10K.
Check Price on Amazon!
If you don’t have much to spend but want the most bang for your buck, the E10K is the way to go. It can power a good chunk of headphones without issue, and will improve sound quality tremendously from your crappy Soundcard’s output. What is a Soundcard? It has a great build, clean character, and provides up to 200mW of total power. Yeah homie, this beast is ready and willing. It comes with coaxial out, line out, and USB input. It also has a gain switch and bass boost for your music enhancement pleasures. Is this the best value for under $100? I would say most certainly. It’s an incredibly easy purchase and will instantly improve the sound of all of your headphones – even the ones that don’t necessarily need amplification.
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF!!
AND
CHECK OUT MY OFFICIAL FiiO E10K USB DAC REVIEW!
My Video Review
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Audioquest Dragonfly Black.
- Check Price on Amazon!
If you have an extra $100 lying around, go with the Dragonfly Red. But if you can’t afford it at the moment, the Black version is the next best thing. This baby is extremely portable (being that it resembles a standard flash drive), and will power a lot headphones. Just don’t buy this and expect it to power much over 100 Ohms. For that you’ll want the Red version. More on that in a bit. 🙂
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF!!
JDS Labs cMoyBB V2.03.
- Check Price on Amazon!
An underrated gem, this Amp disguised as Altoids mints packs a mean punch, with an output impedance of 0.6 Ohms, and a crisp, neutral response. Pick one up at the JDS Labs website! Make sure to get the standard 2x9V, as it will power headphones 150 Ohms and up.
My Video Review
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Schiit Fulla 2 (or Fulla Schiit).
- Check Price on Schiit’s Website!
Hehe. This bad boy is an Amp/DAC combo as well and can power an HD600, but just barely. It provides 40mW of power into 300 Ohm, 230mW into 50 Ohms, 360mW into 32 Ohms, and 550mW into 16 Ohms. It also has an output impedance of 0.5, so you’re pretty much golden with this beast! What is Output Impedance? It’s a combo Amp + DAC, and you can use it as an Amp, a preamp, or a standalone DAC for a different amp. You can also use it with phones, tablets, or computers with low powered USB ports. Connect powered monitors or speakers using the variable outputs on the back. Connect to an external preamp or processor with the fixed 2V line outs on the back, or use the variable outputs.
A Step Up
$100-300
Audioquest Dragonfly Red.
- Check Price on Amazon!
I would buy this instantly without hesitation if I had $200 lying around. It’s going to provide enough power for the majority of headphones, and sounds fantastic with my HD600 (I was fortunate enough to demo the red version on a few occasions). In fact, if you’re starting out this will be all you need for a while, until you get the upgrade-itis itch which is pretty much inevitable. That said, I love how portable this thing is. If you move around a lot like me, you’ll be ecstatic at the fact that you can simply put it in your pocket or laptop bag with absolutely zero hassle. You can also pair it with your phone, but you’ll need this adapter. Luckily it’s cheap and gets great reviews, so don’t fret! 😛 Learn more: Audioquest Dragonfly Red Review!
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF!!
AND
CHECK OUT MY OFFICIAL AUDIOQUEST DRAGONFLY RED REVIEW!!
Schiit Magni.
- Check Price on Schiit’s Website!
I still have the 2, but the Magni 3 provides even more power to your headphones, which is crazy considering the power output was already quite ridiculous. The go to desktop solution in this price range for sure. Learn more: Schiit Magni 2 Review!
LEARN MORE: SCHIIT MAGNI 2 REVIEW!
JDS Labs Objective 2.
Check Price on Amazon!
Absolutely love the neutral, clean signal this provides to my headphones. It sounds crisp and alive, with startling detail and clarity. You can purchase this amp standalone and pair it with a DAC, or get the combo 02 + ODAC. Personally, I paired it with the DAC Magic (discussed below), and was blown away. You will need this RCA to 3.5mm or something similar to make the connection. I used these from Evergreen. I liked it paired with the Modi as well, but not quite as much. I would say that overall I have enjoyed the 02 the most out of the entry level amps I’ve tried.
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF!!
Here’s the combo:
OBJECTIVE 2 + ODAC COMBO!
My Official Review:
JDS LABS OBJECTIVE 2 HEADPHONE AMP REVIEW!!
My Video Review
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More on the DAC Magic a bit later!
Audioengine D1.
Check Price on Amazon!
This is a versatile Amp/DAC combo that has USB input as well as optical and RCA. This means you can use the D1 to hook up to studio monitors, TV, DVD/BlueRay player, CD Player, or even a gaming console via optical. I was flabbergasted at just how good the sound was vs. plugging the headphones straight into the Dualshock 4. As a headphone amp, it’s clean and crisp with a hint of warmth. I noticed this slight difference in comparison to an Objective 2 + DAC Magic. If I had to recommend an all around solution, the D1 wins out fairly easily. An Amp/DAC combo under $200 with a plethora of uses and an extremely solid build. What more could you ask for? A true jack of all trades!
CLICK HERE TO READ SOME REVIEWS ON AMAZON!!
CHECK OUT MY OFFICIAL AUDIOENGINE D1 REVIEW!!
Standalone DAC
Cambridge Audio DAC Magic 100. 
- Check Price on Amazon!
Another fantastic option similar to the Audioengine D1 is the DAC Magic. Also extremely versatile, this baby has RCA outs, a Toslink/Optical input for use with Consoles/Receivers, two S/PDIF inputs, and a USB input. I mean it will even brew you a cup of coffee if you ask nicely! Lol. Not only that, but the sound quality is unbelievable, especially if you’re coming from an iMac or something similar. I paired this puppy with the Objective 2 and was sent to heaven musically and in gaming sessions with Fallout 4. I didn’t want to leave the couch! If you’re used to plugging in your headphones into the controller and getting an OK sound, get ready to be blown away by this monumental experience.
Not only is it much louder, but it’s resolving to a startling degree. Even the ambient music that plays when you’re at the PS4 dashboard is intriguing. Not only that, but you can hear every intricate detail that you had no idea existed before. The environment you’re in becomes 100x as immersive than when you were using the controller jack on the cheap. It truly is something to behold. This set up (O2 + DAC Magic) with an FPS shooter would almost be like cheating in my opinion! Music provides a similar effect, with sounds heard in all directions, and a much more intimate experience overall.
CHECK OUT THE DAC MAGIC 100 FOR YOURSELF!!
Anything more than these and you’re going to get overwhelmed. The important thing to remember about Amp/DAC solutions is not to get carried away in choosing one. They all get the job done. They all sound great. The differences between them are subtle and almost marginal, negligible, etc. etc. (insert term here).
Yes, higher end Amp/DACs will sound better especially with more expensive headphones. But if you’re just starting out, these should be on your radar.
Some higher end stuff I’ve had experience with:
- Audeze Deckard. A fantastic Amp that’s a step up from the $100-200 range we discussed today.
- Bryston BHA-1. The best I’ve personally ever heard as far as a dedicated home theater type of unit. This thing brings music to life on a level that you wouldn’t believe. Source file is important, but these will render tracks with unreal clarity to the point of discomfort. The “You’re squirming in your seat” kind of discomfort.
- NAIM DAC V-1. Another gem, very clean signal, but also very expensive like anything Mr. Dink puts his hands on.
- Oppo HA-2. Perhaps the best all in one solution at any price point. Learn more: Oppo HA-2 Review!
- Chord Mojo. This edges out my Oppo HA2 and is currently the best Amp/DAC combo I’ve heard at a ridiculously great price. In fact, this isn’t only comparable to Chord’s over $2k Hugo 2, but I may indeed prefer it due to it’s slightly warmer character. The Hugo2 provides a bit more cold and clinical detail, but at times it’s a bit much. The differences in sound quality between these two amps are smaller than many would have you believe.
Final Word
If I had to choose one, I would go with the Audioquest Dragonfly Red to start. It’s an easy recommendation and a great solution, and will have you smiling from ear to ear. Interested in learning more about it?
CHECK OUT MY OFFICIAL AUDIOQUEST DRAGONFLY RED REVIEW!!
The most convenient and versatile option would be the Audioengine D1. Amazing sound, great flexibility, solid build. It’s a jack of all trades!
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF ON AMAZON!!
The best budget option under $100 is the E10K for certain. An incredibly easy purchase as it will improve the sound of your music at a ridiculously great price.
SEE IT FOR YOURSELF ON AMAZON!!
Well that’s about it for today folks! I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on the best budget headphone amplifier, and came away with some valuable insight.
What do you think about these? Which are you likely to go with? Let me know!!
Questions? Comments? Requests? Did I miss the mark on something? Let me know in the comments below or Contact me!! I would love to hear from you..
Until then, all the best and God bless..
-Stu
Can’t decide which headphones to purchase? Interested in a complete buyers guide outlining over 40 of the best options on the market? Click on over to the best audiophile headphones to learn more!!
Be sure to also check out my Reviews and Resources page for more helpful and informative articles!
JDS Labs cMoy BB Headphone Amp/DAC Review | POWER PUPPY?
Komplete Audio 6 vs. Scarlett 2i4 | Some Key Differences?
Oppo HA-2 Review [With Video]
About The Author
Stuart Charles Black
Stu is determined to help you make sound decisions, and strives to deliver the best and most in depth content on the internet! In his spare time, he likes to fish, paint, play guitar, pray, rap, make beats, take photos, record videos, graphic design, and more. His sense of humour, coupled with a knack for excellence and strict attention to detail are what allow him to stand out in an crowded industry.
Great page, looks professional, and you have good content. My kids are into all thing audio, so I will definitely show them this one, when they need to know something.
Your explanation regarding the amps and voltage was very helpful to me because I never have understood it before.
Thank You
Thanks Fev!
Let me know if you ever need a hand..
-Stu
Awesome, I use the Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter as well and can recommended too. I have a few other Audioengine products from including the Audioengine A2+ Powered Desktop Speakers. They make really good durable products at a fair price. Great stuff indeed.
What are your favorite headphones for the home studio? I do a lot of mixing.
Hey John how are you liking the A2’s? And have you heard the LSR 305’s from JBL? Love the D1 for gaming though and you’re right; it’s really rock solid as far as build. Really a great solution for PC and Console gamers alike.
As for studio headphones? Love the Sony MDR V6 for an entry level and the Sennheiser HD600 as an all around open back. Both phenomenal sounding cans. You may give the AKG K553 a go as well. It’s a bit more laid back than a V6 and is probably the logical step up.
Let me know if you need a hand in deciding!
I love watching movies and listening to music and I’m trying to build a mini home theatre in my room. I already looked at getting a projector to get the movie playing on the wall, but now I’m thinking a headphone amplifier would really bring my home theatre experience to a whole new level. I think something around $100-$200 would suit my budget perfectly. Thanks for this helpful review!
Hey Kent to start what about trying the Audioengine D1? It’s a great investment and will improve the sound and clarity of your headphones tremendously! Let me know your thoughts..
hi Stuart / All
Thanks for the great website (found through metal571 channel link btw).
What I’m struggling with is selecting a dac/amp.
I’ve read your reviews above (and elsewhere on the website). Very informative.
I’ve purchased (but can return) the dragonfly red (“DR”).
– I DIDN’T find it improved my audio experience with my samsung S8 (believe it or not).
– I definitely was getting direct output to the DAC from my player (using UAPP and HibyMusic players).
– I was testing with sennheiser jubilee hd58x headphones, which I consider reasonable quality.
– I actually felt some separation was better with the phone on its own.
– Other times maybe higher frequency stuff e.g. cymbal taps sounded better or more ‘real’ with the DR.
– I think the DR can be a touch bright and some tracks sound rather lean in the bass (though I guess that might be to do with the mastering or possibly use of foobar with ASIO4ALL or WASAPI output).
– I suspect some of the DR precision is down to its treble.
NOTE: my S8 is the UK version with the exynos chipset (which a reddit thread claims has a better DAC than its snapdragon brother – I wouldn’t know) AND upsamples to 192khz (not clear when though – this is reported by the devs of UAPP – perhaps when android audio API is being used). Just trying to account for why it sounds pretty decent IMO.
HOWEVER, the DR definitely improved my PC mobo audio (realtek 892 chip).
My usage on my PC is music and gaming.
I’m thinking I need a headphone amp because of my 150ohm hd58x.
I’m confused about whether to go down the audiophile DAC/AMP route or towards a soundcard with perhaps an audio/music bias.
My thoughts:
– I could maybe go upto a mojo but it would be a massive indulgence (moneywise).
— it seems widely regarded as just awesome though
— if my primary usage is going to be PC, I don’t necessarily need something portable / battery supported (but I guess having the option would be nice, especially if it sounds as good as people say).
— will it improve my S8 sound though?
— will I get annoyed by it potentially running out of juice if I do end up using it with my phone a lot
— I also don’t like reports I’ve heard about it getting hot when charging and using. Heat doesn’t help component longevity.
– I know you like the audioengine D1 – how does that compare, say, to the:
— JDS objective2 / ODAC combo
— mayflower arc (for the mic input)
— Cambridge audio dacmagic PLUS (which i believe to be a combo too)?
— iFi Audio Nano iDSD black label
— Schiit modi / magni 3 (balanced DAC)
— Sound BlasterX G-6
— sennheiser GSX1000
– I mentioned the dacmagic PLUS as a possible alternative to your objective2 / dacmagic 100 solution, as it might be tidier (though I don’t know if your setup sounds better).
– btw I like the objective2 / ODAC as it has a mic option (just means I can disable my mobo audio completely). A mic input is not essential (as I can just use my mobo audio) but
Hope you can help
Cheers,
Gary
Hey Gary!
Thanks so much for the love! Really enjoy Metal’s reviews 🙂
What are your source files? I think that has more to do with sound quality than the DragonFly Red or your phone. Even the sample rate won’t really matter all that much. I’d say bit depth is much more important. Are you using 24-bit files?
That’s interesting about the Fly vs. your phone. I always tell people in my articles and otherwise to try their phone first because a lot of the newer phones do have really good DACs. Glad you mentioned that actually because it’s not always advantageous to even purchase something separate.
If it were me, I’d go with a DAC/Amp because it’s much more convenient. There will be some people who swear by Soundcards but I’ve never been that guy. I don’t have anything against it though. It’s just not practical for me. I’d rather have something on my desktop and just prefer being able to physically handle it and what not. Personal preference I guess.
If you want to bypass all the lower tiered stuff and make a true upgrade, the Mojo will deliver on that front tremendously well and will sound better than your S8. I’ve always said that the differences between Amps and DACs are extremely subtle but with a Mojo you can definitely tell a fairly substantial one. It’s more lush, warmer, more realistic, and the Instrument Timbre is almost mind blowing. Vocals are no exception either. It kind of makes you feel like she’s singing in front of you which feels really strange but also incredible. I’m not going to say “It’s like you’re there!” but for headphones it’s probably about the closest you’ll get to that. I was using a MrSpeakers Aeon Flow Closed and was just blown away. I will truly never forget that moment.
With an Objective 2, you’re pretty much all the way there as well. Definitely my favorite budget desktop and it sounds sublime. It kind of also gives off this sense that you’re listening in a studio space rather than just hearing a recorded track. There’s a lot of nice air and separation going on. JDS Labs is a no BS company and this amp proves that you don’t need to spend heaps of money to get the best sound. In fact I could really go on a rant but I won’t. Lol.
As for the Mojo getting hot? Yes, it gets fairly hot but I was told by reliable sources at Audio Advice and I believe some reps back in October that it’s normal and won’t hurt anything. It can be alarming when you put your hand on it but I wouldn’t worry about that too much. I’ve written a bit about how Chord designed the unit and why the sound is so much better, but I can’t remember what article it was. I do know off top that they didn’t use a traditional DAC chip to obtain the sound which explains a lot.
Also, yes. It is super annoying when it loses a charge as I’m not really used to having to charge an Amp. I ran into this issue with the iFi xDSD as well and it was really irritating. If you treat it like your phone and charge it a lot you should be okay. When in doubt, charge it. I do a lot of music listening and Gaming and tend to forget to turn it off. That was really one of my only gripes with the unit actually.
The D1 is a great Amp/DAC and the differences in sound between the Objective 2 aren’t really noteworthy. It’s got a slightly warmer tilt to it but that’s about it. Still very detailed and clean. Love that one.
Haven’t heard the Mayflower or DAC Magic Plus. I want to say the DAC Magic 100 with the Objective 2 was ever so slightly cleaner than the Modi but that could totally be my imagination. When you know something is $100 more it kind of programs your brain into a bias towards the “better” unit. If you were to get the Objective 2 I’d just get the combo from JDS Labs and be done with it. Fantastic amp.
I haven’t heard the Nano but I do want to get my hands on that one soon.
Used to own a Magni 2 but haven’t heard the 3. I would imagine it’s about the same. Don’t quote me on that though. It does have a lot more power but in all honesty the 2 had plenty. My opinion is that they just made it to compete with other similar units that started coming out. I don’t really like the sound of the Magni anymore now that I’ve heard other stuff. It’s not as clean as an Objective 2 and honestly pales in comparison.
Haven’t heard the Sound BlasterX or Senn GSX1000.
Honestly, the Objective 2 + ODAC is a great choice but if you want a true upgrade in sound, the Mojo does provide that.
Hope that helps! Keep me posted man..
-Stu
Hi Stu
Thanks for the great reply.
I typically have 320bit MP3 converted from WAVs, sampled from CDs. Or FLAC from WAVs from original CD. I’m pretty sure that means 16-bit 44.1khz audio. My understanding is i guess i could rip to 24-bit, if my audio system permitted, but it’s about the mastering quality and the medium limitations, which is 16-bit (as it’s CD audio).
I’ve been thinking increasingly about the Mojo because just everyone speaks highly of it, particularly in comparison the Hugo, which is 3 times the price. I just don’t like heat and its detrimental effect on electronic components.
Thanks for the reassurance about JDS labs. I’ve heard from 3rd parties they’re the biz, so it’s good to hear the same from you.
On my research travels, I’ve heard good things about Topping. It’s surprising/frustrating, when one delves, as to how many audio manufacturers there are out there. Ahhhhhhhhh!!!
Cheers,
Gary
Ah okay, nice! So yeah I do think the Mojo is a worthy investment and the best I’ve heard outside of a Bryston BHA-1. It really does sound better than anything priced lower and I’m of the mindset that most Amps and DACs sound about the same (So that should tell you how I feel about the Mojo). There’s way too much hype surrounding them and there are also too many of them. The market is currently over saturated and it’s really irritating to me.
I think new companies want a piece of the ever growing proverbial pie, and are taking advantage of the fact that people are just never satisfied. Now we have this influx of them and it’s completely unnecessary and also confusing for the average person who just needs something to amplify the sound a bit and also improve audio quality. So I know exactly how you feel as I feel the same way. I honestly can’t stand it. It grates my nerves to no end.
The Hugo is also not even close to being worth that much when you consider a Mojo sounds basically identical with regard to detail. The Hugo is just trying too hard to be more detailed and while it kind of is, it doesn’t sound as enjoyable to me. Definitely not wroth that price jump. Check out my article: Chord Mojo vs. Hugo 2.
Keep me posted as well with any other questions!
-Stu